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So still splicing the same cables as mentioned by OP etc? or completely cutting them out? Could you elaborate which ones I would need to cut etc? Appreciate it....
I didnt want to cut my wires so i decided to splice. For the wiring, please refer to harbin9er post above and focus on the last pic displaying a 24 pin connector....it takes some getting used looking at those but you will get the hang of it. Post some pics when done.
Here's a schematic on my 08 G37S Coupe with Navigation setup
On the left it details the pin numbers that I used.
Note that the FSM is not always be accurate! Also, the wiring can differ between model years as well as what package/options the car has. I had to do a lot of trial and error to get it to work with my specific car.
What about the HVAC controls? Does that still popup on the screen when you adjust that or do you have to switch back to the other screen to do that? Is there a way to make that work on the tablet screen while displaying the android side?
What about the HVAC controls? Does that still popup on the screen when you adjust that or do you have to switch back to the other screen to do that? Is there a way to make that work on the tablet screen while displaying the android side?
Wait, so all this done and still stock screen needs to be used for HVAC? Thought all these meant everything on stock screen would show on the new one =(
Wait, so all this done and still stock screen needs to be used for HVAC? Thought all these meant everything on stock screen would show on the new one =(
Look at the below video, the tablet starts off showing the stock screen displayed on the tablet, then the user switches to the tablet....before switching back to the stock screen to view the backup cam...
Going between displaying the stock screen and an app on the tablet is a manual process so you will have access to all the stock screen info....even how cold to put the a/c.
Hi, does anyone with the nexus 7 / infiniti setup still use this page? I have a few questions . One being can i just put the tablet in and then get a bluetooth connector thing and a rca splitter and split the rca into a aux and plug that into bluetooth thing and connect the nexus 7 to bluetooth , or should go from rca to aux to nexus or rca to aux to DCA thing to nexus (i want best audio) 2nd question would be that with doing all this could i still install subwoofers , 3rd is how are you guys powering the nexus , where does the other end of charger plug into , is it avtually plugged in or wired in, and how does the fast charging / slow charging work becasue my galaxy note 9 only fast chargers on like 2 chargers and i have to use the specific box for it .If somone could show a picture of video of power wiring and how i wire it to the right wire to turn on when i turn on my car and not be on 247 and drain my battery , also does anyone know how or a link to how to add a back up cam to this mod .
If anyone has a snapchat or phone number that they can just talk to me in voice with it would be alot easier
Hi, does anyone with the nexus 7 / infiniti setup still use this page? I have a few questions . One being can i just put the tablet in and then get a bluetooth connector thing and a rca splitter and split the rca into a aux and plug that into bluetooth thing and connect the nexus 7 to bluetooth , or should go from rca to aux to nexus or rca to aux to DCA thing to nexus (i want best audio) 2nd question would be that with doing all this could i still install subwoofers , 3rd is how are you guys powering the nexus , where does the other end of charger plug into , is it avtually plugged in or wired in, and how does the fast charging / slow charging work becasue my galaxy note 9 only fast chargers on like 2 chargers and i have to use the specific box for it .If somone could show a picture of video of power wiring and how i wire it to the right wire to turn on when i turn on my car and not be on 247 and drain my battery , also does anyone know how or a link to how to add a back up cam to this mod .
If anyone has a snapchat or phone number that they can just talk to me in voice with it would be alot easier
Yes, some of us old timers still lurk in the shadows lol. To answer your questions....
#1 - Yes, in theory you should be able to. I bought iSimple ISFM22 but I have not installed it yet but I can say that for sure, IS31 does work which uses RCA inputs and works as an FM transmitter.
#2 - You will be using your tablet to send sound to the the stock radio so whatever you are doing to take sound and add base to it should work.
#3 - A high output car charger plugged into the cigarette lighter and a quality power cable, that way you are only feeding power to the tablet when the ignition is turned on and not 24/7
#4 - The wiring for our cars changes between models, nav vs no nav vs no nav w/ bose, etc
I'm starting to post videos on youtube on this mod including some how-to's and explaining the logic behind this setup, check it out Miami_g37
First i wanted to thank you all for the great help. This thread has really made my life easier. I'm about 50% of the way done with the rework but it’s starting to look good so i thought i would share. I didn’t like switching between the screen on the nexus so i'm currently installing a small screen at the bottom of my console, either a 5 in (shown in the pic) or a 4.3 in. Also routed 2 usb connector to the front panel for easy access.
What is the specific model of the screen, I can not find the right one, thank you!
By reading the factory service manual extensively, I just figured out how to do this on my '08 G37S Bose with Navigation. It's a bit different from OP, who had a Bose without Navigation.
The key difference is in pin 19, the RGB sync signal. For Bose without Navigation, this is is the signal coming from the AV unit to the display:
Notice the voltage levels is around 4V for high, and 0 for low. I believe this type of sync signal is what they call "TTL" (Transistor to Transistor Logic - i.e. nominally 5V meaning high, 0V meaning low).
However, for Bose WITH Navigation, the sync signal is instead this:
Notice the voltage is now only 0.4V for high. I *think* this is the other type of sync signal, the 75ohm sync.
If you look at the specs for the Weiya CV-04, it specifically says the input RGB Sync needs to be TTL and 5.0VPP. Therefore, the 0.4V high on the 75ohm sync signal is not going to work as a 'high' for TTL.
Fortunately, the display OUTPUTS TTL Vertical (pin20) and Horizontal Sync (pin8) signals back to the AV unit. I believe these are needed when the car is in reverse, where the display needs to synchronize a) the backup cam image and steering guide lines coming from the camera unit, with b) the words "check surroundings..." coming from the AV unit. Note that the display is always outputting Vsync and Hsync back to the AV unit, regardless of the car being in reverse or not. However, this Vsync and Hsync needs to match the sync from the AV -> display. So the signal wire for pin19 needs to remain connected.
Another difference with my car and the OP's is that my car has pin13 as ground, instead of pin14. But you can actually use any ground (even the bare metal or car body).
So, the way to wire up to the Weiya-CV04 on my car would be:
Note the wires for pin 8 and 20 must connect: a) AV unit, b) display, and c) Weiya.
One last thing I learned is that - whenever you change wires to put into the Weiya, sometimes the Weiya may not respond appropriately. It's helpful to unplug and re-plug power to the Weiya to 'restart' it.
Bumping this from the dead in the hopes that anyone who originally did this mod is still around. I have a 2007 Bose, nav and I am attempting to replace the center screen completely with another one, so I can use the other HDMI input and touchscreen with my Raspberry Pi.
I wired the Weiya identically to the way pictured above ^ And I am able to get a picture.
Everything is working, with the exception of two issues:
1. The picture from the car is kind of dim, but this might just be the screen I am using for testing (hopefully)
2. To get the backup camera working, I soldered a composite cable onto pin 12 (label camera image signal) and pin 13 (GND). I then put the output from the Weiya and this backup camera cable into a Y splitter, then into the display. The problem is on normal operation there is no picture on the regular screens (radio hvac etc) but as soon as I go into reverse, it's fine. If I unplug the camera wire from the Y splitter, Everything works again besides my camera. Did anyone else have this issue? How did you solve it?
Also wondering if anyone was successfully able to trigger reverse using a relay and reverse signal (and if so, where do you tap into reverse signal wiring?)
@harbin9er Hopefully will see this. I don't know why I can't PM you.
It takes some digging into the FSMs to find all the info that you are after. Pin 37 on the OEM AV unit (the big box behind with the CD player and all the radio controls) has the 12V reverse signal that you want (arrowed in the schematic). I used pin37 to trigger a relay that switches video inputs between a) from reverse camera, and b) from Weiya.
I also have another relay that switches to an alternate front cam; but ignore that - it's not relevant to your project
I think your issue is that you have two composite video signals (weiya and reverse cam) concurrently going into the Y splitter - you need to find a way (e.g. use a relay) to switch between the two signals.
I ended up using an "Easycap UTV007" (can find this on Ebay and Amazon) for slightly better/more stable video, instead of "FEBON 100 UVC Grabber Card" that OP used.
So I was looking at the LCD driver board I have a little more closely and noticed it had pins for AV1, AV2 and ACC. Did some more reading and ACC is meant for switching to AV2 on 12v signal. Perfect! So i put the backup camera output onto AV2 and wired ACC to Pin37 behind the AV unit and switching works perfectly when I go into reverse. It even shows the steering wheel lines.
Next thing is power, do you think I can power the Weiya 04 as well as the LCD / lcd board off the Pin 3 (ACC power)? I don't want to overdraw. I would think it's probably fine since the stock screen gets power from there as well, and it's a more power hungry CCFL display.
05-26-2018, 10:33 AM
