dookie

outstanding!

It appears that the reason for the multiple battery/gnd signals was that they were being fed to another component that needed it in the G35.


Since you were going from non-nav to nav, for the comm pairs, going from g35 bose/w nav to G37 bose w/nav, the connector and pins would be:
M87 Pin 48 to M210 91 AV COMM H
M87 Pin 49 to M210 75 AV COMM L
M87 Pin 50 to M210 92 AV COMM H
M87 Pin 51 to M210 96 AV COMM L

The camera is still a bit confusing. I know I have to jumper connections at the Camera Control Unit as follows:
5 to 11
8 - 14
18-20
6 - 12
7-31
17-19

This will route all the necessary signals back through the dash connectors.
So then at M71/M75, I'll need to move the GND, Shield, ACC, Battery, camera image signal and comm lines. The ones I'm still confused on is the composite signal. not sure where that is coming from. Is that only between the av unit and the display?

And I think the only other missing piece I have is the Mode change pin on M209. Pin 30. This goes to the bose amp in the 2010. Any idea what to do with that? The 2007 amp obviously doesn't have this connection at all, and not sure what it does anyway.

Thanks for all your help!

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

AV COM:
From what I can tell you should be fine as long as you do not cross the COM H with COM L as all of the pairs are interconnected anyway.

COMPOSITE IMAGE SIGNAL:
Direct connection between AV unit (67,68) and Display (19,18). This is mainly for the DVD signal.

MODE CHANGE:
This function is for the Driver's Audio Stage feature. Unless I am wrong, it seems that (2007/2008) M87 Pin 44 is for the Mode Change Signal which becomes (2010+) M209 Pin 37.

CAMERA:
I did not have a Camera Control Unit so I have no idea there. Best advice, just be sure to test (and label) each wire you are going to "repurpose" to keep things sorted.

dookie

I finally got all of my parts in. I got connectors from Japan and am wiring up the adapter cables. I could've just de-pinned everything, but this is cleaner.

I've uploaded a spreadsheet containing all the relevant diagrams and pinouts as well as a pdf of the wiring schematics. Nothing professional here, just some quick hacking in Visio.

I'd love it if anyone would go through this a bit and make sure I'm correct. I'm wiring up the harness adapters this week and should be able to test friday/saturday. The shield pins are probably the only ones that I'm a bit unsure of, but I think I traced them through enough to have them right.

The display wiring was a bit tricky since I wanted to re-use M88 and M71 connectors.

I had an additional question that I wanted to verify:
On M210, there are two SHIELD pins, 83 and 88.
Would it be correct to assume that I should take a shield connection from M88 (RGB connector)? Or use shield from The new M210 connector and split to

Also, I looked at M87, in 2007, there was no mode change function, so no pin 44. I didn't swap the amp out, so I don't think I could use it anyway. I suppose I could buy a used amp on ebay. I just never really worried about it.

dookie

@ilm-ncg37s
@modme @stvsfx

I know this is an old thread, but I FINALLY got around to doing the install, and had some issues. I'm fairly certain that I have all of the wiring correct. I built adapter harness that converted the G35 connectors to 2010 connectors. I know power was getting to the AV unit as I could hear the DVD spinning up. However, I never saw the monitor come on. The car started acting a bit flaky after as well. for example, the car would go to "ON" but then wouldn't shut off, etc... I also, at one point, blew the 15 amp radio fuse as I had a loose connection. The faceplate/climate controls NEVER came on. I re-used the 2007 G35S faceplate as it looks the same.

I'm not sure what I might have gotten wrong, so I have some questions that might help me out:
1. should I be able to connect the AV unit and display up and get SOMETHING to come up on the monitor regardless of issues with other wiring?
2. If I wire power up to the head unit and the monitor on my bench with a power supply and only connect the display cable, would you expect at least the radio to come up and the monitor work?
3. Should i be doing the install with the battery completely disconnected and/or is there a procedure after making the connections to get the car to "LIKE" the new unit?

I'd appreciate any help. I'm going back through the wiring today and tomorrow.

I also hope that the monitor I received from EBAY actually works. I have no way of telling whether it powered up or not, but there's definitely voltage on the correct pins at the new connector.

William Gillins

dookie

I'll try again tomorrow with the battery disconnected.

mostly, I was hoping that on the bench I might just get the display to at least show something, like the boot screen, etc... I need to verify that the display is good.

Did you do a wiring diagram or anything of that sort? I'd like to verify everything against someone who has completed this. I can't be too far off, but there were a LOT of wires lol

William Gillins

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Rule #1: Always do electrical work with the battery disconnected. Better to be on the safer side of caution.

First, double check that you did not mix up the two connectors at the AC/AMP (plastic rectangular box mounted to the AV unit). The AMP uses two connectors which are identical and can very easily be mixed up. The car acting "flaky" points to this problem.

The radio/climate control switch assembly, the "faceplate with the clock" is NOT interchangeable. They look identical but the circuitry is completely different. You must have a NAV panel for the 2 switch assemblies to work.

dookie

AH! I was under the impression that the faceplate was the same. I'll have to find one.

The AC/AMP appears to have been correct as when I put the original back in everything worked.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

The switch assembly/faceplate is easily found on eBay- just make sure the donor is from a NAV car. The clock and face trim is easily swapped over (just for reference).

dookie

awesome. already found a few.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

You will get it sorted. It just takes time and patience. Keep us updated!

dookie

bumping to ask a few questions....

After 1+ year of this just sitting in a box due to life getting in the way, I finally got everything installed and working. I had the power wires for the monitor swapped as I must've gotten dyslexic with the connector pinout. fixed that and nearly everything works.

I do have a minor issue at the moment... the following steering wheel controls don't work at all: volume +/-, back, and phone. everything else functions. The track selector (up down ok) works, but does seem to be flipped (i.e. up for next track, down for previous) where I think it worked normally previously. The back button not working is quite annoying. volume more so.

Is it possible that a pair of comms wires are inverted? I wouldn't think any of the buttons would work if that was the case.


Also, just a note, but I was actually able to re-use the 2007 faceplate in its entirety. the only thing different is that the Preset ABC button does nothing. For me, this was a good thing because the only faceplate I was able to find from a 2010 (at the time, had some damage to the *****. I actually disassembled the entire 2010 faceplate and was going to swap ***** and buttons (the **** rubber was gross), but not having to actually tear apart the 07 faceplate was nice.

Appreciate any input!

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Not sure how much help I can provide as I have a 2018 steering wheel, but, looking over my notes there are only three (3) wires going from the headunit to the steering wheel switches:


You may want to double check that you have those three (3) wires in the right place.

HOWEVER, as was mentioned previously, you should have a 2010+ preset switch assembly ("faceplate") to match your headunit. This could be the cause of your issues. I doubt your steering switches are the problem as, like I said earlier, I have a 2018 steering wheel and those switches work fine with the 2014 headunit.

Also, UP is for the NEXT track, DOWN is for previous. Always been this way AFAIK.

dookie

Thanks for the information! I may have gotten ahead of myself with the faceplate as everything "seems" to work. I'll swap the 2010 fp back in today and see if that works. I doubt I checked all the buttons when I had it connected, since 90% of everything else worked on with the 07 FP.

I'll trace through those three wires to see if I got something crossed. It's entirely possible since I built adapter harnesses to between the OEM and 2010 equipment.


I have been using a grom audio BT unit for quite awhile. up is previous, down is next, there. Probably the source of my confusion. I guess I'll have to relearn...