Spingjp

thanks, i hear that from everyone, no one can see any modifications done. thats why i like it..

'11G37S

iTrader: (4)

That's how it should be done!

If I may ask about how much did you spend on the speakers? I was thinking of upgrading my speakers soon and was just trying to get a ball park figure for pricing.

Spingjp

for just the speakers including the from polk components , the rear polk coaxial, and the rear polk 10" sub it cost around 450 bucks just in speakers..

then you got your amp, wiring, LOC or DSP..

carz

great job!

imbills

are you using stock head unit ?

jam013200

Yes he is still using the OEM head unit.

Spingjp

yes stock headunit with the digtial sound processor, which gives you a adjustable eq and a sound processor like a aftermarket headunit..

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

what exactly do you do with the
70-7552 harness and 71-7552 Harness?

Why not use a posi-tap instead of using both harness?

Spingjp

i used the harnessed to tap into the factory harness, i didnt want to cut any wires or tap, just so incase i ever want to remove everything it will come out easily, you can use the tap connectors if you want.. the harnesses are inexpensive anyways...

iron chariots

how did you run the speaker wires for the fronts? every post that i've read so far says that the molex on the driver's side door doesn't have any openings to run aftermarket wiring. i have a 3sxity.2 that i want to use to tap the signal for the front stage minus the center channel and would like to run a somewhat thicker wire for a morel three way component system because i'm not sure if the stock wire is thick enough for 100 watts (alpine pdx v9).

Spingjp

i just used stock wiring, i looked at it and it seemed difficult to run my own wires through there. and i didn't want to see anything if i couldn't fit it through the molex.. so i just kept the stock wire there..

The Max

I like the neat job you did there. Tell me something though, does the existing factory harness have a wire going to pin 1 of that connector carrying the speakers and power to the head unit?

That's the remote wire and I intend to use it in my install but I'm not sure if the factory harness in these non-Bose systems has that wire in place or if it is omitted from the connector. Because if it is missing, then I'll buy the Metra pair. If it is in place, even at just a short length of wire, then I'll be cutting and soldering to that instead. That's all provided that the non-Bose headunit even has that output available by design.

Spingjp

yes and no the way i obtained my remote wire, i used the metra two harnesses tapped into the signal, ran all wires to my rockford 3sixity, which from the rockford 3sixity 3 it gives me a remote turn on lead.. if i recall correctly, the metra does give a remote pin but i couldn't get it to work..

deep1214

can you explain what wires you tapped into behind the headunit because I have the same car and trying to install subwoofers I have and I have a somewhat understanding where I am going to posi-tap but just want to make sure. I don't know where I should get my remote lead from? I believe for the + and - for the speaker I am going to tap the M81 or M201 connector but I don't know if the G25x has the same audio wiring as the 2010 G37 base audio and non nav which says tap M81 and the 2011 G37 base audio non nav says tap M201 for the positive and negative connection. Excuse me if I am confusing in this its just shows how confused I am.

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

which amp or processor are you using??

some newer amps have auto turn on using speaker sensing.
same with the processor...most have auto turn out with a remote out for amps