ZSpeed Performance review
03-28-2014, 12:11 PM
#1
ZSpeed Performance review
Like many others here, I ran into hydraulic issues after installing a new clutch.
Long story short - By the time I had come to this conclusion, after speaking with tech support for the clutch I bought (not anything from ZSpeed), it was Thursday morning (last Thursday the 20th) and I needed parts by the weekend to fix the car. Usually not a good position to be in.
After reading reviews on ZSpeed's HD CSC, I decided it was a no-brainer to go with that.. And I figured I should replace the clutch master cyl. at the same time. After exchanging a few emails that morning, Joe told me that if I placed my order by a certain time, he could ship it out that day.
So I placed an order for the HD CSC, new OEM master, and their braided steel line (within the time frame he gave me), and no joke, within 25 minutes of me clicking the "place order" button, or whatever it said, I had a tracking number and the parts were on the way. I was impressed. I paid for over-night standard delivery, for a good price I should add, and the parts showed up on time Friday afternoon. HD CSC, very nice piece, I would definitely recommend this 10/10 over any other slave "upgrades". Very simple to install. If you have the ability to remove your transmission (to me, its way easier than what I've been working on for 10+ years - STi, Evo, Corvette), you can install this part.
Installed everything the following day (I do all my own labor). The master was a huge pain, until I figured out the "trick". Compared to my first go the previous weekend, I cut my trans removal/install time in half, haha. I bled the system according to their directions, and my hydraulic system has been working great ever since!
I'm beyond pleased with my first experience with ZSpeed, definitely looking to them first, for anything I need in the future. Not every place can/will give that extra effort to help out, sometimes its not possible. Having been in the industry for years before a career change, I understand first hand how tough it can be trying to keep customers happy. I want to make sure the forum knows that ZSpeed is a company that will do extra.
So two big thumbs up for ZSpeed Performance
Long story short - By the time I had come to this conclusion, after speaking with tech support for the clutch I bought (not anything from ZSpeed), it was Thursday morning (last Thursday the 20th) and I needed parts by the weekend to fix the car. Usually not a good position to be in.
After reading reviews on ZSpeed's HD CSC, I decided it was a no-brainer to go with that.. And I figured I should replace the clutch master cyl. at the same time. After exchanging a few emails that morning, Joe told me that if I placed my order by a certain time, he could ship it out that day.
So I placed an order for the HD CSC, new OEM master, and their braided steel line (within the time frame he gave me), and no joke, within 25 minutes of me clicking the "place order" button, or whatever it said, I had a tracking number and the parts were on the way. I was impressed. I paid for over-night standard delivery, for a good price I should add, and the parts showed up on time Friday afternoon. HD CSC, very nice piece, I would definitely recommend this 10/10 over any other slave "upgrades". Very simple to install. If you have the ability to remove your transmission (to me, its way easier than what I've been working on for 10+ years - STi, Evo, Corvette), you can install this part.
Installed everything the following day (I do all my own labor). The master was a huge pain, until I figured out the "trick". Compared to my first go the previous weekend, I cut my trans removal/install time in half, haha. I bled the system according to their directions, and my hydraulic system has been working great ever since!
I'm beyond pleased with my first experience with ZSpeed, definitely looking to them first, for anything I need in the future. Not every place can/will give that extra effort to help out, sometimes its not possible. Having been in the industry for years before a career change, I understand first hand how tough it can be trying to keep customers happy. I want to make sure the forum knows that ZSpeed is a company that will do extra.
So two big thumbs up for ZSpeed Performance
03-28-2014, 10:24 PM
#3
Just did a quick search around the forum, didnt find any instruction on this...
Anyways, I'll try to write this clearly.. Sometime in the near future I'll make a nice DIY with pics and whatnot..
First, inside the car you'll need to disconnect the pedal from rod/piston assembly. Real simple - there's a clip securing a pin in place, that holds the rod to the pedal, (anybody that's installed a RJM clutch pedal has worked with this), remove the clip and push the pin out, the rod should be free from the pedal.
Second, still inside the car, you'll need to remove the two 12mm nuts holding the clutch master to the firewall/bulkhead. Save yourself a headache and make sure you have a magnetic extending wand handy and pop out the plastic trim pieces.. the nut on top will probably fall down under the fuse panel, that's where the magnet comes in handy.
Under the hood - identify all the bolts securing the fluid reservoir, remove it along with its bracket. Carefully loosen the hard line, 10 or 12mm line wrench needed, pretty sure its a 10, cant remember. Once the hard line is off, the master should be free.
On my car, 08 mt S coupe, there was zero room to get the clutch master out.
(car on jack stands) front left wheel well, pop out the clips holding the rear portion of the fender liner so you can pull the plastic liner back. Identify and remove the 3 nuts securing the ABS module (12mm wrench IIRC).
Remove the plastic trim pieces up top.. At this point it should start looking like you actually have some room to work with. Start wiggling the ABS module up, so its bracket studs are clear of their holes. Once the studs are clear, carefully move the ABS module towards the front of the car. There is some give with the hard lines, if you're careful, and pay attention to what you're doing, you wont bend, break or kink any lines. It only needs to move forward a few inches to clear up the space needed to get the clutch master out of there.
When I got to this point, it took me probably no more than 20 minutes to install the new unit and put everything back together.
So I guess it's not really a trick, more of a procedure. Maybe there's a better way.. But I battled with trying to get the clutch master out of there, before loosening up the ABS module, forever. After loosening it up and creating more space, it was seconds.
Also - Tip for getting the nuts (haha) that mount the clutch master to the firewall back, inside the car - there's no room to use your fingers.. Put some grease on the nut, then stick it inside the socket, grease should help hold the nut, so it doesnt fall out while trying to guide it in there.
Apologies if my writing cant be visualized.. Like I said, I'll get out in the garage with the camera and make a thread in DIY, I didnt find any directions in there.
Anyways, I'll try to write this clearly.. Sometime in the near future I'll make a nice DIY with pics and whatnot..
First, inside the car you'll need to disconnect the pedal from rod/piston assembly. Real simple - there's a clip securing a pin in place, that holds the rod to the pedal, (anybody that's installed a RJM clutch pedal has worked with this), remove the clip and push the pin out, the rod should be free from the pedal.
Second, still inside the car, you'll need to remove the two 12mm nuts holding the clutch master to the firewall/bulkhead. Save yourself a headache and make sure you have a magnetic extending wand handy and pop out the plastic trim pieces.. the nut on top will probably fall down under the fuse panel, that's where the magnet comes in handy.
Under the hood - identify all the bolts securing the fluid reservoir, remove it along with its bracket. Carefully loosen the hard line, 10 or 12mm line wrench needed, pretty sure its a 10, cant remember. Once the hard line is off, the master should be free.
On my car, 08 mt S coupe, there was zero room to get the clutch master out.
(car on jack stands) front left wheel well, pop out the clips holding the rear portion of the fender liner so you can pull the plastic liner back. Identify and remove the 3 nuts securing the ABS module (12mm wrench IIRC).
Remove the plastic trim pieces up top.. At this point it should start looking like you actually have some room to work with. Start wiggling the ABS module up, so its bracket studs are clear of their holes. Once the studs are clear, carefully move the ABS module towards the front of the car. There is some give with the hard lines, if you're careful, and pay attention to what you're doing, you wont bend, break or kink any lines. It only needs to move forward a few inches to clear up the space needed to get the clutch master out of there.
When I got to this point, it took me probably no more than 20 minutes to install the new unit and put everything back together.
So I guess it's not really a trick, more of a procedure. Maybe there's a better way.. But I battled with trying to get the clutch master out of there, before loosening up the ABS module, forever. After loosening it up and creating more space, it was seconds.
Also - Tip for getting the nuts (haha) that mount the clutch master to the firewall back, inside the car - there's no room to use your fingers.. Put some grease on the nut, then stick it inside the socket, grease should help hold the nut, so it doesnt fall out while trying to guide it in there.
Apologies if my writing cant be visualized.. Like I said, I'll get out in the garage with the camera and make a thread in DIY, I didnt find any directions in there.
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Hotmess (07-05-2020)
05-03-2014, 09:53 AM
#4
The tricks are.....
Remove the clevis completely off the master first, Remove bottom nut holding master to firewall, Pull bottom stud out with a stud remover from inside the car. Proceed with lines, other nut and such, this will give you enough room to wiggle the master out, No need to move ABS module this way.
Also, We appreciate the kind words, It means a lot to us when people can see our passion!
Remove the clevis completely off the master first, Remove bottom nut holding master to firewall, Pull bottom stud out with a stud remover from inside the car. Proceed with lines, other nut and such, this will give you enough room to wiggle the master out, No need to move ABS module this way.
Also, We appreciate the kind words, It means a lot to us when people can see our passion!
04-13-2016, 10:20 AM
#7
Let's hope that ZSpeed HD CSC doesn't shoot one of the backing plate bolts into your clutch and flywheel doing a lot of damage as it did for me. Then ZSpeed mysteriously tells me that I have "version 1" and even though there's "nothing wrong with it", somehow they want me to now pay for "version 3" to replace it with which comes with different design of the backing plate and different bolts, so I ended up having my car in the shop for over a month, had to pay a lot of labor, had to special order one-off OS Giken flywheel that their crappy bolt destroyed, had to pay more money to zspeed while dealing with various levels of BS from ZSpeed who mostly tried to cover up the reason they have 3 versions of the same part and tried to shift the blame on the installer who is the most knowledgeable Nissan guy I know. Thanks, ZSpeed!
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Presto (04-13-2016)
Trending Topics
04-13-2016, 01:04 PM
#8
Ouch sorry to hear that.
How to confirm which version we have? I got one few months ago from zspeed.
How to confirm which version we have? I got one few months ago from zspeed.
04-13-2016, 01:15 PM
#9
Old version has thick plate and long bolts, new version has thin plate and short bolts, if you got it 3 months ago you probably have new version, as the one that disintegrated on me was installed 3+ years ago.
08-18-2016, 01:29 PM
#11
Zspeed CMAK review
2011 Sport 6MT 105k miles, lost clutch pedal, fluid leaking out of transmission bell housing.
Ordered one of the CMAK kits (stage 1 quiet + 18lb forged flywheel) last Wednesday, it arrived by Friday.
Started tear-down of car Friday night: exhaust and bracketry
Saturday: Clutch lines and driveshaft
Sunday: transmission removal and reinstall.
Monday: more reassembly & replace master cylinder
Possibly one of the easier transmissions to remove IMO.
Zspeed instructions are clear and concise. Clutch movement alteration kit seem well constructed. Pedal engagement is solid, OEM engagement was as the top of the pedal stroke, Zspeed CMAK engages at the mid to bottom of pedal stroke. Minor chatter from flywheel depending on RPMs.
10/10 A+ would recommend CMAK.
We DID remove the ABS booster via the driver side fenderwell and re-bleed all the brakes to get the master cylinder in. Seemed easier than alternatives. Did not have stud puller.
Car feels solid. Now I just need to change my spark plugs
Ordered one of the CMAK kits (stage 1 quiet + 18lb forged flywheel) last Wednesday, it arrived by Friday.
Started tear-down of car Friday night: exhaust and bracketry
Saturday: Clutch lines and driveshaft
Sunday: transmission removal and reinstall.
Monday: more reassembly & replace master cylinder
Possibly one of the easier transmissions to remove IMO.
Zspeed instructions are clear and concise. Clutch movement alteration kit seem well constructed. Pedal engagement is solid, OEM engagement was as the top of the pedal stroke, Zspeed CMAK engages at the mid to bottom of pedal stroke. Minor chatter from flywheel depending on RPMs.
10/10 A+ would recommend CMAK.
We DID remove the ABS booster via the driver side fenderwell and re-bleed all the brakes to get the master cylinder in. Seemed easier than alternatives. Did not have stud puller.
Car feels solid. Now I just need to change my spark plugs
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ZSpeedPerformance (10-03-2016)
10-03-2016, 03:16 PM
#12
Let's hope that ZSpeed HD CSC doesn't shoot one of the backing plate bolts into your clutch and flywheel doing a lot of damage as it did for me. Then ZSpeed mysteriously tells me that I have "version 1" and even though there's "nothing wrong with it", somehow they want me to now pay for "version 3" to replace it with which comes with different design of the backing plate and different bolts, so I ended up having my car in the shop for over a month, had to pay a lot of labor, had to special order one-off OS Giken flywheel that their crappy bolt destroyed, had to pay more money to zspeed while dealing with various levels of BS from ZSpeed who mostly tried to cover up the reason they have 3 versions of the same part and tried to shift the blame on the installer who is the most knowledgeable Nissan guy I know. Thanks, ZSpeed!
This is old but IIRC this was from 3-4 years ago it was originally purchased and has had multiple clutches installed with the same CSC....
The bolt that came out is one that is installed when the HD CSC is installed in the trans, Not something we tighten. You sir, are extremely incorrect.
Our updates have ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with the bolts that are installed at time of install to hold the slave to the trans.
All bolts in our HD CSC kits are class 12.9 high strength, The bolt was not the issue.
Last edited by ZSpeedPerformance; 10-04-2016 at 11:12 AM.
10-03-2016, 03:24 PM
#13
The only reason we did this was so the release bearing cover would hit the clutch more towards the tips of the fingers effectively changing the release ratio so it would smooth engagement of the twin/triple disk clutches
This is why we sold you an updated version as we no longer produce the model with the thicker back plate.
10-03-2016, 03:32 PM
#14
FWIW I'm 3500 miles into the swap and the only things I have to report:
1) flywheel chatter at low RPM but I'd expect it. I went with the lighter forged flywheel
2) I keep randomly hearing something in my clutch pedal rattle, like a loose cotter pin or something but I can't seem to figure it. some type of vibration noise coming from interior near clutch pedal.
3) the wife will no longer drive the car because the clutch is too hard to press, whatever the hell that means.
1) flywheel chatter at low RPM but I'd expect it. I went with the lighter forged flywheel
2) I keep randomly hearing something in my clutch pedal rattle, like a loose cotter pin or something but I can't seem to figure it. some type of vibration noise coming from interior near clutch pedal.
3) the wife will no longer drive the car because the clutch is too hard to press, whatever the hell that means.
10-04-2016, 10:08 AM
#15
Wow, Because whoever installed your kit did not tighten the bolts correctly/or missed the loc-tite it is now our fault that the bolt fell out?
This is old but IIRC this was from 3-4 years ago it was originally purchased and has had multiple clutches installed with the same CSC....
The bolt that came out is one that is installed when the HD CSC is installed in the trans, Not something we tighten. You sir, are extremely incorrect.
Our updates have ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with the bolts that are installed at time of install to hold the slave to the trans.
All bolts in our HD CSC kits are class 10.9 high strength, The bolt was not the issue.
This is old but IIRC this was from 3-4 years ago it was originally purchased and has had multiple clutches installed with the same CSC....
The bolt that came out is one that is installed when the HD CSC is installed in the trans, Not something we tighten. You sir, are extremely incorrect.
Our updates have ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with the bolts that are installed at time of install to hold the slave to the trans.
All bolts in our HD CSC kits are class 10.9 high strength, The bolt was not the issue.
No, this was not from 3-4 years ago, this is very recent but I've come to expect factually incorrect statements from zspeed, apparently looking at post date is a little bit beyond zspeed's abilities.
Whoever installed my kit does these kits couple of times a month, so don't start with blaming the installer first, it's your terrible design that's at fault here as the bolt was tightened to specs and still had loc-tite on it when I looked at it, yes you haven't installed the thing but you included the damn bolt with your kit and you charged me $12.5 plus shipping for the replacement of your crappy bolt because first thing zspeed did was ship the wrong bolt to replace the defective bolt that destroyed my flywheel so thanks for that excellent customer service, you lying sack of defective bolts.