Timstevens

I posted this in brakes and tires but no one responded... I hope someone in here can help!

I did a track day last weekend in my 2013 G37 Sedan and had issues with the stock brakes. Major fade finishing a 20 min session. Ended up eating up the rear brakes and Rotors. Would like recommendations on upgrading the Fluid, Rotors and pads to hold-up better on track. The car has 23k miles.

I run in the instructor group. Previously club raced with PCA,PBOC and SCCA. I never thought this car would be as much fun as it was! Just wished the brakes and tires were better!

Thanks!

G37Sam

Are you on the non-sport brakes? Sport calipers with track pads and two piece rotors are a good start.

PS: Brake fade after 20 mins of abuse is pretty impressive actually for a road car. If you're looking to do some serious tracking then the G is not your best platform, it's a fat pig with inadequate brake cooling. Any track driving will put a lot of strain on even 6-pot brakes.

Timstevens

Yes, Non-sport brakes... I was impressed with the cars performance besides the brakes and tires. I may do a few track days (as I still instruct for a few clubs) here and there until I am able to upgrade to a different car. It is always nice to pass M3's, M4's and 911's in this fat pig! I had many come to me after the session to find out it was pure stock... Kinda funny!

I'm thinking about going with stoptech slotted rotor and Hawk pads all around. I crafted up some break cooling in my 911 race car. May try something similar If I'm going to do more then one or two 20 min sessions a day.

Thanks for responding! I will post if there is an improvement!

G37Sam

Definitely keep us posted. We could all benefit from your experience

RadioFlyer

iTrader: (1)

RBF 660 fluid, SUPER high temp pads - I used to run Hawk HT-14's on another car (supposedly those were the pads that NASCAR road course cars ran). I'm not sure what that compound turned into among their current offerings. You also might be limited by the pads that would even fit in the non-sport calipers. And brake ducts. I'm not sure about the non-sport front end, but the sport front end has blocked off vents that you can open up to get a duct back there. You could just route a tube from there to your wheel well, and that would probably help. Or you could try to fit the Stillen 370Z brake duct kit.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

I will second the Motul RBF600 brake fluid. I would recommend Hawk DTC-60 or maybe even DTC-70 brake pads. Stainless steel braided flexible brake lines are not a bad idea either.

Has anyone had any luck with brake ducts on this car? I am sure you have run these on some of your race cars before. I am not sure how well the Stillen kit fits. I tried fabbing up kits myself on other cars and it seems to help quite a bit as long as you can get it to shoot air right to the inside center of the rotor.

RadioFlyer

iTrader: (1)

This season, I only took it to one track day, where I cooked the bearings in the supercharger in the third session, and was out for the rest of the day. The supercharger has been sent back to Stillen/Vortech for warranty work, and I haven't gotten it back for a bit over a month now. Track season is over now, but I'm quite happy with the way the car handled itself. My brake setup was Carbotech XP12(front), XP10(rear), and Motul RBF660 brake fluid. The car had a bunch of other cooling mods, but the brake setup with the high temp fluid and pads held up great!

In response to the brake ducts - when I took off the front bumper, I looked closer at the inside of the stock bumper, and sure enough, if you remove the covers in the little side vents on the front, it's blocked off in the inside, on the radiator side, so they blow directly onto the fender liners. What I did was mount my oil cooler behind the hole on the left side, and removed the windshield washer tank on the right side, then cut holes on the inner side of the fender liners for the air hitting the front of the car, to pass through. The vents would create a high pressure area in the wheel wells, and the air would have no where else to go to relieve the pressure, other than past the front brakes. No need for ducts as long as you vent the wheel wells. It held up for the first two sessions and part of a third session where I was braking from 135-140mph down to the top of second gear for a tight turn at the end of the straight. Braking was never an issue that day.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Glad to hear the brakes held up well, especially with the added speed of a supercharger!?! I ran similar Carbotechs on one of my Subarus before. Decent pads