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Hey all. I've been browsing myg37 for the last couple weeks and can't seem to pinpoint a definite answer.. So I made an account and I'm posting my first question, figured I'd ask the professionals.
I've got an 08 G37S coupe with 125k miles, 6spd. I've had the car for 7 months now and I've had intermittent problems with the push-to-start button. It worked when I first got it, started having issues, works for a month, issues, works, etc. Anyway, the problem has recently gotten pretty bad. Hit the start button, it goes from off to ACC. From ACC to on. Clicks (sounds like the starter solenoid), lights/dash/radio come on. Hit the button again, goes to off. Rinse and repeat. 100 button strokes later, it'll start right up. From what I've gathered on these forums is this is a fairly common thing.. Lots of good pointers but nothing has solved my issue. I've checked the key fob battery, read 2.9V but went ahead and replaced it to rule it out of the equation.
I checked the switch on the bottom of the clutch. The switch is definitely engages when I press the clutch down. I've pulled the switch and checked continuity, reads OL when not pressed and I have continuity when I hit the button. Switch is good.
Replaced the battery a month ago (back when the start button wasn't giving me fits.. It turned over really slow one day and was dead the next.) So the battery is a month old now. Also read about the TSB on the valve control assembly that drains the battery.. This could be an issue (as I've not replaced the valve control assembly), but I don't think it's related to the push start problem.. It *knock on wood* starts every time, it just takes many button presses to get it to fire up. So the battery isn't drained. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to get a multimeter on there and verify its solid, I can do that when I get a chance and report back. Like I said, I don't think it's a battery issue.
I've tried putting the fob into the slot by the hood release, that seemed to help starting the car once or twice, but by no means resolved the issue.
I've read the issue with the anti theft steering lock mechanism that commonly fails, but wanted to get a couple answers before I go cutting wires. How do you know when this is the issue? Shouldn't the issue go away if you pop the fob into the slot by the hood release? When I get into the car, the steering wheel is locked. When I try to start it, the wheel is unlocked. If it's the steering lock mechanism, would the wheel still be locked? Or does it unlock and not send the signal to the computer saying "it's unlocked and ready to start"? Just wanted to get some input before I try putting it in ACC (unlocking the mechanism) then cutting the power wire. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
I'm also wondering is it a bad connection to the starter? How can I test the starter to see its making good connection? I think the starter is fine, but maybe have a loose connection somewhere along the line that makes it act up. Like I mentioned, it's just so sporadic and unpredictable. Today when I left work, it started with 1 push of the button, no problems. Sorry to write a novel, just wanted to be as specific as possible. If it would help to post a video, I'll take one and post it. Any questions, lemme know and I'll tell you what I know or find out what I don't know.
-Weird things that seem to help (but probably just coincidence, I dunno):
-open/close the door.
-pop it in/out of gear. If it's in gear, pop it out, sometimes starts. Vise versa.
-roll the window down
-key fob in the slot by hood release
-pressing and holding the start button down. Sometimes fires up on 1 press if
I hold it down. Sometimes it takes 2 long button presses (from off to ACC,
then another long press from ACC to on.
Love the forums, many great pieces of advice. Now that I have a profile, I'll start repping all the good tips that have helped with my other issues! Keep up the good work guys!! Thanks!
I don't have an extensive knowledge of the G37, so I apologize if I'm not of much help. From the sounds, it could very well be the anti theft system with a bad fuse/relay thats not registering. My friend's r32 has a similar issue if you let the car sit for more than 2 days, and especially if you have to jump it, you have to first put the key in the ignition, then press the unlock button to register the system or else it wont crank. Anti theft systems are essentially kill switches, so if its not functioning properly your car wont start.
I would definitely look into testing the anti theft system as the cause of the problem. Good luck with the car!
Roger that, I'll do some more digging around the forum and look for ways to check the anti theft steering lock.. Quick update while I'm here, the car has fired up with relatively no problems since I posted lol. What I've been doing (and like I said previously, may or may not help at all.. but it seems to be working) is I get in the car and press and hold the clutch down for a bit. 5 seconds maybe. Then press and hold the start button. Since my initial post, it's started with 1 or 2 long presses of the start button. It doesn't always work, but it's been better. Maybe I've just been poking the button too quickly all along, I dunno. But I know in my wife's car, I just hit the brake, poke the button real quick and it fires up each and every time. No long drawn out process of holding the start button or anything.
Thanks for the reply and the welcome! I'll keep searching/trying new things. Any additional input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again!
If holding the clutch in for a while helps before you poke the button, maybe look into bleeding the master cylinder, or look into the clutch assembly.
As for holding the push to start button down, have you looked into removing the button itself and popping the cover off? The inner mechanism might be damaged, or worn out from years of use, preventing the right leads from making contact to send the signal.
C1Forged, thanks again for the quick reply! I think the clutch assembly is fine, but it's definitely worth a quick glance. I thought about the button itself as being the point of failure, but I assumed it was good seeing how it changes states each time I hit it (off to ACC to on). But now you've got me thinking, it very well could have dirty/broken contacts preventing a solid signal to the starter. I'll pull it apart tomorrow or this weekend and give it a good inspection. Thanks again for the the help. I'll report back with the results.
From my knowledge on switches, I believe the Push start is a double switch, where it has to send the 1st signal, 2nd, and then 3rd in order to go from ACC -> On -> Start, in a series. If its damaged, or a lead circuit isn't connecting properly, it could be looping between Acc and On, without completing the Start loop until you get lucky.
Agreed, that would explain the unpredictability of the issue.. Just got word I'm heading outta town for the weekend for work, but hopefully Sunday I'll get the switch popped out and take a gander. Hoping to find something obvious and put this issue to bed. Thanks again, I'll keep you posted!
Hey, just a quick update. I left my car in the airport garage for 3 days (slightly less, but got charged for 3 days..) Anyway, get in the car and it fired right up. So I think I can rule out the faulty air valve assembly that drains the battery for now. But like I said, it started up with no issues. Instead of popping out the switch and inspecting, I just ordered the red GT-R start push button. Figured I'd add my first mod and rule out the switch. Hoping this resolves the issue, I'll report back when it's installed.
For anyone, can someone verify that the G37S 6MT should fire up with a simple 1 press of the start button? I know I have an issue somewhere, it shouldn't take 100 presses to fire up. Recently it's been 1 or 2 long presses and it fires up. Any insight would be appreciated!
Well, got the GT-R button installed.. Looks great! First start attempt took several presses of the button, but it started. 2nd and 3rd time starting went better, but still have an issue somewhere. Starting to think it could be a bad connection to the starter. Any pointers on how to diagnose? Hoping to get under the hood this weekend and start tracing wires down to the starter, looking for any damaged wires/loose connections.. But any other pointers would be welcomed!
Check both ends of the engine harness to see if you have a dead line. If all the wiring/cables are good, its the starter At which point you will have to take it in to a dealership, or an infiniti repair shop in order to get it tested and fixed/replaced.
Hey guys, still having issues with this thing starting. Really think it's the starter/relay/wiring. Anyway, finally got under the car tonight trying to find the starter and begin diagnosing the problem.
Got under and noticed this
What cover am I missing here? I'm assuming this can't be good.. Can't believe I never noticed this before
Sorry for the semi poor quality. The 2nd picture is looking towards the back of the car, right where the transmission meets the motor. 1st one is a more detailed pic.
I had the *EXACT* same issue and fixed it with 320 grit sandpaper.
It was the a connection on the starter, between the starter solenoid and the starter motor.
I removed the starter and sanded the washer that was arcing between itself and the nut and all has been well for weeks.
What happens is the same as corroded battery connections. The high current draw when starting combined with a corroded connection will arc. Sometimes the arc will make a connection but after a while it won't.
09-27-2016, 09:59 PM
) Anyway, get in the car and it fired right up. So I think I can rule out the faulty air valve assembly that drains the battery for now. But like I said, it started up with no issues. Instead of popping out the switch and inspecting, I just ordered the red GT-R start push button. Figured I'd add my first mod and rule out the switch. Hoping this resolves the issue, I'll report back when it's installed.
