Maelstrom

Hey all,
I have a 2008 G37S Coupe and the cruise set light will randomly (about 1-2x per week) come on and start flashing.

The dealership has the car right now and hasn't been able to reproduce the issue yet. They said there was one code in the system, but it was an old code. They mentioned it was something with the ECM, but didn't give me the specific code.

I've seen issues on other forums with other Infiniti's, but wondering if any of you G owners have experienced this or know what might be causing the issue?

Thanks!

mwhyes

I have this on my '08 6MT w/o ICC. Started intermittently over the last few months, and has now started flashing every time I drive the car above 20-30 mph. I have scoured the forums for an easy fix, but no one seems to have nailed down the definitive cause (water leak, brake switch, etc.). According to the service manual, the light will flash if any of the components within the CC system are faulty (page EC-62) in the factory manual. That includes, among other things, the brake/clutch switch, speed/RPM/park sensors, steering wheel control. I've checked for leaks, but nothing was immediately apparent.

Previous posts have stated that the dealership just replaces each one of these components until it's resolved. In order to prevent throwing parts (including a new ECU) at the problem, the manual tells you how to troubleshoot each component. I think I'm going to crack a few beers after work and troubleshoot each component in the system.

Considering it has absolutely no effect on the drivability of the car, it's not a huge issue, just want it to go away and my CC to come back.

Maelstrom

Well I had it at the Infiniti dealer for 3+ days and they couldn't reproduce the problem. They did pull the P0605 code which led me to a google search that turned up: ITB13-013

I'm guessing I will have to have my ECM replaced, but the dealership needs it to throw the code again before they replace it. Since I bought the car from CarMax less than 30 days ago, they are going to cover it... but they also want to wait until it throws the code again. I'll keep you guys updated.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Are the clutch pedal limit switches properly adjusted and working? That would be the first thing I'd check. I believe the top switch (switch pedal is in contact when your foot is not on it) is the one responsible for cruise control override. If it's malfunctioning you may have issues.

mwhyes

Update - Checked both circuits (brake/clutch) and the steering wheel buttons. No faults. Since the brake and clutch switches are in series on the same circuit, any continuity faults when the pedals are pushed in/released, would have been identified through this test (EC-428). Continuity faults would be due to a broken switch/misaligned switch, so I think I can rule that out.

Now the set light has stopped flashing, but CC wont set.

Going to keep looking. Next step is to check for an intermittent fault, that is, reperforming the test after a car wash, etc etc.

Maelstrom

My cruise control started flashing again. It was a Sunday and so I drove it straight to the dealership and dropped it off, but there was no one there, so I had to use the night-drop box. They called this morning and are now saying that any cruise control issue will not store the code... wtf?

I asked them to double check for ANY codes and they quickly stated there were no codes, but they wanted to keep it for a couple days and try to drive it to make it error out again.

Any advice?

Maelstrom

My car has been in and out of the dealership for about 2 1/2 months now with them trying to figure out what is wrong. It's been good for a week so far, but I will keep you updated if anything changes.

Just curious... does anyone having cruise control issues have a grounding kit installed?

RadioFlyer

iTrader: (1)

I just picked up an 08 G37 coupe 6MT. I'm having this problem as well. It seems to have been getting worse over the last few days. The one thing I've tried with regards to the ASCD switches, was tape a nickel on the platform that presses the upper clutch switch. Then I went for a drive and it was all clear for about 30 minutes. While it didn't fix it, it changed the behavior. And it stayed off for longer than it has previously. I'm thinking it has to do with these switches or how they are communicating with the ECU.

handleandrew

iTrader: (1)

I had an 08 G37S MT that first had this problem around 50k-55k miles. It continued to happen intermittently until 73k miles when a lady texting hit me and totaled the car. I bought a second 08 G37S MT with 69k miles on it at the time. around 72k miles it started doing the same thing. no solution. havent tried. it happens about once a week. sorry to be of no help, but its clearly a common problem. around the same time (on both cars) I started getting the "slip", "vdc" and "brake" light coming on. on the first car I replaced the little sensor under the clutch fluid reservoir and it solved that problem (but not the cc problem). I haven't replaced it yet on the second car. im sure this is of no help but I just offered it as an fyi I guess. good luck hommie.

VOLK_TE37

iTrader: (1)

Replace your ACSD Cancel switch, guaranteed to fix your problem!
My dealer even replace my ECU but the same issue came back after a few months. I took out the switch and cleaned the inside contact terminals and it went away and hasn't happened since 3 years ago.

Everyone with this problem are all 6MT owners.

SWITCH ASSY-ASCD CANCEL - 370Z (Z34) 2009+ Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

13_SkylineSedan

This may be stupid but ... I had cruse on a manual Volvo years ago and there came a time when the clutch pedal simply wasn't returning all the way back up to it's stop - either from the cable stretching or simply clutch wear. At that point it would physically not move the switch and thus render the cruise inop. I could pull the pedal back with my foot and cruise would come back online...

Is it possible that's what's happening here?

RadioFlyer

iTrader: (1)

Awesome! 1,000,000,000x THANK YOU for this!

Now, the part in the link says 2009+; and the TSB is for 2009+ cars... I'm assuming the same applies for 2008 cars also? I haven't read anywhere that there is a difference between the 2008 and 2009 cars, but TSB's are usually pretty accurate with what model years they apply to. Any insight on this?

RadioFlyer

iTrader: (1)

I hope that's what's happening here. That was my theory behind taping a nickel under where the switch makes contact with the clutch pedal assembly. It didn't fix it, but it changed the behavior, so that leads me to believe that that switch is a key component in this problem. I'll replace that and report back.

Thanks for your help guys!

VOLK_TE37

iTrader: (1)

BTW I also adjusted the contact terminals, two piece of copper that springs. You can go this route if you would like to save some money. Remember you will have to re-adjust it to make it contact perfectly when re-installing it back.

Check this thread...
https://www.myg37.com/forums/general...-flashing.html

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

There's 2 switches in the clutch pedal assembly. One at the top of the stroke, other at the bottom. The switch at then bottom determines if your car starts or not. If it's not adjusted correctly or malfunctioning, the car will not start. ECU uses this switch to determine the clutch pedal is fully depressed.

The other switch at the top is used to disengage cruise control with even a slight press of the clutch pedal. I believe there's enough slack to actuate the switch before actual pressure is applied to the pressure plate. Proper adjustment and function is important here too.

I'm not sure if these are NC or NO switches, but for obvious reasons both cannot be actuated or be in the same state at the same time. A MIL light may get set if that's the case. Both switches are a pain to get to, but are accessible - just have good light.