KnoxvilleG37

So which oil do you recommend in your experience? If you say conventional 5w30 dino oil I'll reach through my computer and smack you.

As a side note, I was just seeing that Motul oils are only rated API Service SL on their website.....not the API SM that is recommended for our cars. I'm assuming that's not a good choice. Isn't that a warranty concern using an API service rating that is below what is recommended for our car?

todd92

I would use any of these:

Mobil 1 0W-40
Castrol 0W-30
Amsoil Euro 5W-40
Motul 8100 EX 5W-30
Pennzoil PP Euro 5W-40
Redline 0W-40, 5W-30 or 5W-40
Elf Excellium 0W-30
BMW Synthetic 5W-30

Among these I have no preference, they are all great oils. I wouldn't worry about the API ratings at all.

I would not use Motul 300V for street use with long drain intervals. It's great for track use if you change it after the track days, but all of the oils above would also work fine.

Note that I would NOT use Nissan Ester oil or any other conventional oil.

KnoxvilleG37

Well...looks like Nissan's Ester Oil is making a push on our poll. I'm really surprised no one who has voted is using Pennzoil Platinum. I've been doing a lot of reading that the Pennz. Plat. holds up VERY well (especially compared to Mobil 1) on used oil analysis. Might be what I try first in my G.

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

IMO Unless you are running extended change intervals wich I don't think most people here are, it matters very, very little which synthetic oil you use. Those who are paying $5- $10 per quart for synthetic oil and still changing every 3K or 3750 are just throwing money out the door, but if that's what they want to do, it's their money. That is the purpose of synthetics - to give you adequate protection for a longer period between changes, not to give you more protection than dino oil. I think the marketing is working.

Personally I will do a UOA at 5K on the oil I have in now. Then I'll change the filter and do subsequent ones every 2500K with filter changes every 5K. I think more people pay too much attention to the oil they put in their cars and not enough attention to changing the filter more often. The particulate contamination is going to damage an engine before the oil itself fails to provide adequate lubrication.

Some big truck fleets invest in bypass filtration systems and NEVER change the oil in the truck for hundreds of thousands of miles.

todd92

I do 10,000 mile OCI with 5 qt sumps like in the G. I don't test anymore, the oil always makes it to 10,000 miles with plenty of life left. Any decent filter will last 10,000 miles, there is no need for intermediate filter changes. Diesel engines area different story entirely, the oil gets loaded with particulates, hence the value in low micron bypass filters. Keep in mind those engines also hold gallons of oil. Modern gasoline engines are spic and span by comparison.

ChOy BoY

iTrader: (2)

I just switched to Eneos synthetic..and I'm running 0W-50 right now.

If anyone needs Eneos for a good price..PM me

rbrockman

First oil change this last weekend, and put Amsoil 5-30 in the G37. Ordered it online, and it was delivered the next day.

I had been a die hard Mobile 1 fan for years until I was "enlightened" that it wasn't truly a 100% synthetic. We can debate whether or not it matters, but if you are going to use a synthetic, I believe you can do now do better than Mobile 1 at equivalent pricing.

By the way, I believe the new Amsoil synthetic media (EaO) oil filters are a step up from the other popular oil filters on the market. Check these out even if you don't choose to use their oil.

No I'm not a Amsoil dealer, just a very satisfied consumer.

KnoxvilleG37

Bump.....anymore voters out there? Looks like Mobil 1 is the champ so far, Nissan Ester Oil in 2nd place.

KLB

Just got my first Oil change on my sedan. I went to the local Nissan Dealer, since the Infiniti dealer is alomst 60 miles away. They used Mobil 1 for their synthetic, so that is what I went with. I plan to change it again after 7500 miles, and have already ordered a kit to have it tested when I do.

KnoxvilleG37

I've been talking to my service manager at my local dealership and he is of the opinion of it being safe to switch to synthetic in a new engine. He says it should be fine putting synthetic in at my next oil change (7500mi). He's also a fan of Mobil 1 and that's what he runs in his G coupe....so we'll see.

RedG37SNC

2 of us vegetarians, although using 5w 30, it never gets real cold here.

Silver37

I just did my first oil change last night and used Pennzoil Platinum. The engine seems to run quieter and rev easier. I would expect some of that to happen with any oil change, but the results are really impressive. Probably a result of the properties of synthetic oil. I'll have to see if it changes the gas mileage, etc. It's currently on sale at Advance Auto....5 quarts and a Mobil 1 filter for $24.99...hard to beat.

KnoxvilleG37

Alright! Another Pennzoil Platinum user. I've got a 5 qt jug in my garage from Walmart ($20) waiting for my next service. I've heard the exact same things about P.P. on bobistheoilguy.com that engines sound quieter/smoother. Glad to see someone else has tried this oil. I agree the Oil Change special at Advance Auto is a great deal.

Question, did you do the oil change yourself? If so, do you use ramps like Rhino Ramps? or a jack and jackstands? Is there a good brand of jack stands for the G37? All of the ones I've seen have weird adapters on the stand that don't seem like they'd fit our jack point.

Silver37

I never would have believed it would make that much of a difference changing oil on a modern engine.

I changed it myself and didn't use jackstands at all. I hate using them and feel that they are dangerous. I have the sedan, so that may sit higher than your coupe. Just get a low oil pan and a long 10mm socket for your ratchet and start taking off all those bolts for the bottom pan. You'll need a flat screwdriver to pop off the other fasteners. Once you get that off, the filter and drain plug are right there. I would highly recommend getting an oil filter wrench since my original filter was really torqued down. I couldn't budge it using both hands, so I ended up using a filter wrench. I never would have gotten it off using brute strength.

WhosUrBuddiee

iTrader: (1)

I have been using Enos 0W-50 but debating on switching because it is kinda expensive.

Anyone tried the Q-Horsepower? I saw it pretty cheap and have been debating it on my next change.