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LS Swap, TT Kit, Or SC Kit?

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Old 10-25-2016, 10:14 PM
  #31  
NeverBoneStock
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Dreamer thread. Plus wrong forum. Not many people here have done any of that to their cars on this forum. Mostly wheels and bolt ons
Old 11-09-2016, 01:06 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
I've no stats on this, however I don't believe you can "stop on a dime" any better now than you could before, except maybe for your new pads. What you can do is pound those brakes over and over at high speeds, allowing for more functionality before they fade.

To be sure, 4DRZ will have an opinion here. Let's see.
Originally Posted by 4DRZ
I think you guys are both right to a point. Bigger rotors will mainly help dissipate heat if that was the only thing you changed. However, it sounds like Takran upgraded his calipers as well which should improve his braking because there are more (and much larger) pistons giving the brakes substantially more clamping force. Pads will probably make the most immediate and noticeable difference.
This, higher clamping force and bigger, more aggressive pads in regards to stopping power. I have enough braking power now that if I get hard into it, it feels like my face is being pulled off. Definitely didn't have that before.

The huge rotors just look cool - and stay cool, as you said, though I don't track the car (yet).
Old 11-09-2016, 11:14 AM
  #33  
DuuMaa
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Hello . More information on my build in my build thread. Like I said over there, this will be a long process as we'll be building everything ourselves.


Old 05-11-2021, 09:38 PM
  #34  
Finch37
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
What exactly are you trying to accomplish?

If you just want a faster time in the 1/4 mile or to brag about dyno numbers just get nitrous until you get carried away with too much and pop the motor. You could probably do this a few times before you get bored and still be cheaper than an LS swap on a car that will be almost unsellable with an A/T, if you can even get that to work.

If you think it is too slow and want to keep it a long time, get a supercharger.

If you want it to sound great and have power on the cheap just get a tune, intakes, intake manifold, headers, cats, and exhaust. I only have the headers, cats, and exhaust and it already sounds great and is a ton of fun to drive.

If you want to track your car regularly, let me know and I can tell you which parts will fail first instead of wasting your money on too much power, throwing the balance of the car off and setting your brakes on fire.

If you want a dedicated track car with an LS motor, go buy a used Corvette.
What will break first?
Old 05-18-2021, 10:28 AM
  #35  
rotarymike
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IMHE (experience), better track times come from a slow, but predictable car (Miata, cough cough) and lots of seat time.

I've regularly run down BMW3s and modded FD3S rx7s in my buddy's track-prepped NB Miata, by conservation of momentum and lots of reps. He's a driving instructor, and is just scary fast with that 130ish HP with just a cage and suspension mods (and Kumho Victorracer tires). Tighter tracks like VIR are made for that car.

I'm surprised no one has suggested VK56VD swap yet. LOL.
Old 05-19-2021, 04:08 AM
  #36  
SkysG37
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All good advice above
I want to see more VK56 swaps too!
If only to see the aftermarket catch up and make VK performance parts more affordable
Old 05-27-2021, 01:13 AM
  #37  
Broken_2008_G37
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old topic resurrected from the dead. Just for fun i'll add my 2 cents. if you're looking for bang for your buck just supercharge it. There is "alot" that goes into an LS swap that a lot of people dont take into consideration. LS3's arent cheap.. about the price of a supercharger alone and thats not installed etc. Turbo is just too expensive (unless you piece everything together yourself) but then you said "reliability"... I vote supercharger. slap that sucker on the top in a few hours and you're good to go. A swapped car probably wont be too reliable.. better to stick with the engine the car came with. CHEAP //// RELIABLE //// FAST ///// pick 2.
Old 05-28-2021, 02:01 PM
  #38  
4DRZ
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Originally Posted by Broken_2008_G37
CHEAP //// RELIABLE //// FAST ///// pick 2.
#truth

I agree with the above statement. However, I am not so sure bolting a supercharger to a stock block is terribly reliable. The other thing is that it does not provide a ton more power than all the bolt ons, especially when you take into account the cost of a supercharger. Don't get me wrong, it would still be fun.
Old 02-28-2023, 03:05 AM
  #39  
Fman007
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Dead post….but surprised no one said differential gearing swap. If he wants to feel more power, drop a 3.9 gear ⚙️ in there.
Old 02-28-2023, 08:20 AM
  #40  
Rochester
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Originally Posted by Fman007
Dead post….but surprised no one said differential gearing swap. If he wants to feel more power, drop a 3.9 gear ⚙️ in there.


This certainly is an old thread, and since originally participating 7 years ago, the year afterwards (2017), I also swapped out rear gearing for a 4.083 final drive. And while you don't create any more power than you had before, you absolutely move that power down low. The result is amazing. Whole new car.
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SupraOfDoom (02-28-2023)
Old 02-28-2023, 08:52 AM
  #41  
SupraOfDoom
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Originally Posted by Rochester


This certainly is an old thread, and since originally participating 7 years ago, the year afterwards (2017), I also swapped out rear gearing for a 4.083 final drive. And while you don't create any more power than you had before, you absolutely move that power down low. The result is amazing. Whole new car.
This is the best upgrade you can do for an NA car. I'd argue that a well setup NA car with proper final drive is as fun as a boosted car, but with much more reliability and cheaper to maintain. Maybe it's because I have the track in mind, but adding a bunch of weight and complication to the car just seems unintuitive to me, even if power can compensate some what.
Old 02-28-2023, 09:10 AM
  #42  
Fman007
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Originally Posted by Rochester


This certainly is an old thread, and since originally participating 7 years ago, the year afterwards (2017), I also swapped out rear gearing for a 4.083 final drive. And while you don't create any more power than you had before, you absolutely move that power down low. The result is amazing. Whole new car.
How is that gearing on the highway? I always thought that would be annoying to have those higher RPM down the freeway. I even entertained trying to install a taller 6th gear to compensate.
Old 02-28-2023, 09:33 AM
  #43  
Rochester
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Originally Posted by Fman007
How is that gearing on the highway? I always thought that would be annoying to have those higher RPM down the freeway. I even entertained trying to install a taller 6th gear to compensate.
Naturally, I was concerned about that, too. It's something that everybody who entertains this mod worries about. But the reality is that highway speeds in 6th gear will hold only 300 RPM higher than normal. It's a barely noticeable difference. I suspect mileage has gone down maybe 0.1 or 0.2 mpg, but unless you live on the highway with long commutes, this isn't an issue either.

Like SupraOfDoom said, this is hands-down the best power mod you can do for the 6MT while staying NA. I have absolutely zero regrets, six years later. Look at the mods in my sig line... this car is so much fun to drive, it's nuts. The only times I think otherwise is when I get behind the wheel of a high HP monster and I realize everything is relative.

[edit]

Just remembered that I created a thread for this project way back when. Here it is:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/drivetr...6mt-sedan.html

Last edited by Rochester; 02-28-2023 at 09:38 AM.
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