iCrap

iTrader: (8)

Then just do simple bolt-ons and get a tune. Intake, exhaust, cats, headers, coilovers, swaybars, brakes, etc.

AUR11

Oil cooler, transmission cooler, 2piece rotors, better brake fluid, valve body upgrade, suspension and tires.

These are what you need to track your car. This engine is more than proven to be track worthy. LS3's without the dry sump have issues with oil starvation.

If you want a track car that is reliable go get a Miata and spend way less than you would on the swap or a supercharger. It's never wise to a have a daily that is also your track toy.

main_shoby

iTrader: (1)

like everyone else, I got popcorn too!
(chants) ~ L-S SWAP! L-S SWAP ~ (chants)

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

These are much better ideas than supercharging, turbocharging, or an LS3 swap for an occasional track day.

These are also much better ideas than touching your engine. But "shhh" on the whole idea about not tracking your daily driver. After many years of track days I am still stubbornly trying to pull off that trick.

Okay, here's some good advice- Unless you want to turn your G into a dedicated track car by dropping $50k+ completely gutting the car, seam welding the chassis, putting in a cage, fire suppression kit, air jacks, race brakes, suspension, wheels/tires, etc. before you even touch the engine- drop the idea of a turbo, supercharger, or LS3 right now. Even if that is your goal, get a different car to do this with as the G37 is not a great platform for that type of goal.

The engine is the last thing to upgrade if you want faster lap times. How many track days have you done so far? If you say "zero" and you spend all your money on the engine you will overheat the engine terribly as well as the brakes, power steering, and probably the rear differential if you are RWD. Any of these things could lead to catastrophic events on the track. Focus on improving your skills first as a driver. Be a sponge and read everything you can about race driving, get as many instructors as you can to tell you everything they know, ask lots of questions, and apply what you lean. Start out slow and gradually increase your speed as you learn more about the limits of the car as the day progresses. This will make a far bigger difference in your lap times and your safety on track.

If you have done a number of track days and you feel you are a pretty experienced driver then you need to spend your money making the car reliable and able to deal with heat and the huge stress on the braking system and tires on track. I think you mentioned you have an A/T which I believe means you do not have the large 4pot front 2pot rear Akebono brakes with the 14" front rotors and 13.8" rear rotors. If not, you are at a huge disadvantage on the track because your car is heavy, but you might be ok with race brake pads (Hawk DTC-60 or similar), goodridge lines, and Motul RBF600 brake fluid. You will also need a large oil cooler and probably high temp fluid for the power steering and definitely for the rear differential if you are RWD (maybe not if AWD). Better brakes will improve your lap times much more than adding horsepower. Do not even think about going to a track day without these items.

The next thing you will want to replace is your tires since they affect everything the car does from acceleration to braking to cornering. Then start looking at suspension like sway bars and springs.

That should be enough to get you started. I have done all of these things and I consistently pass cars that have significantly more power than you would have with a supercharger or LS3 because I have my car set up right and I know how to drive it. The only things on my car that add power are the exhaust mods and those are more useful to me for the ability to hear the engine revs so I know when to shift, than the extra power they provide.

Good luck and let me know when you have questions. I have been there, and broken that so don't be afraid to ask so you don't waste a ton of money on the engine only to find you have to spend a lot more just to get your car to stop and turn properly.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Maybe wen the OP says he wants to track his car, what he really means is take it to the local drag strip. Doubt it, but IDK.

4DRZ... that was great advice.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Oh damn! I hope you are wrong about the drag strip part. If that's the case, then in the words of Gilda Radner, "Nevermind." (Google it millenials)

Snorlax562

Thank you all, I will be just doing bolt ons and a tune. So glad I got this out of my system because I was so close to pulling the trigger on the swap rofl.

Snorlax562

Thank you all, I will be just doing bolt ons and a tune. So glad I got this out of my system because I was so close to pulling the trigger on the swap rofl.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for noticing. At least maybe I helped talk the OP out of his original idea. Too bad it seems all the rest of my advice went right out the window....

2011-G

Thanks a lot for this post 4DR.. makes things a lot easier for new G37 owners

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Well, at least hopefully it will help dispel the myth that simply adding power is the best way to faster lap times.

For those serious about being fast on track with this car, it is the best advice I can give so far based on my first year of track days with it. I'm sure I will learn more as I go about what works and what doesn't.

Epiphany

This so much, although I would say get a Miata AND a turbo or S/C for it. It would probably still cost less than doing proper FI on the G37 too.

Takran

Some excellent advice in here. Hell, I feel ten times better just driving around town with my brakes upgraded to the Akebonos with those massive rotors (and I run aggressive pads). Being able to stop a 3800-lb car on a dime is priceless, particularly when you live in Florida.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

I've no stats on this, however I don't believe you can "stop on a dime" any better now than you could before, except maybe for your new pads. What you can do is pound those brakes over and over at high speeds, allowing for more functionality before they fade.

To be sure, 4DRZ will have an opinion here. Let's see.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

I think you guys are both right to a point. Bigger rotors will mainly help dissipate heat if that was the only thing you changed. However, it sounds like Takran upgraded his calipers as well which should improve his braking because there are more (and much larger) pistons giving the brakes substantially more clamping force. Pads will probably make the most immediate and noticeable difference.