4DOORFUN

It's been five years and 46K miles and my wear indicators are just starting to squeal a bit. My pads must be just about gone by now.

For those of you that have experienced this, did your G only need new pads? If so, front only or the rear as well? Did the rotors need to be resurfaced? What did the dealer charge you?

I'm just trying to get information on what to expect before I take it to the dealer. Thanks in advance.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

If your rotors aren't scored or have uneven pad deposits you can just change out the pads as long as you don't feel any vibration in the pedal when applying the brakes. Might shop around for brake job pricing, a good independent shop should save you quite a bit, maybe even a buddy that's does mechanic work can lend a hand. It's a simple procedure for those that have done it a few times. Also at 46k miles I'd also do a complete fluid flush.
Pads and fluid would be about $100 to $150 depending on what type you go with. rockauto.com has good pricing on Centric/Stoptech products.

WillCo1

My dealership recently told me it would be like $599 to replace front and rear pads.

I did my best to avoid laughing in his face. Nice guy though.

I just went to Harbor Freight and picked up a 3 Ton Low Profile Jack, Jack Stands, and a Torque Wrench.

All for under $150.

4DOORFUN

Thanks for the responses. I think I could do the pads myself, but I'm not too confident about how to determine if my rotors need to be resurfaced. It's hard for me to imagine that I could simply throw new pads on a call a day without an issue down the line.

I do get some pedal vibration, but only at highway speeds. Local driving and the pedal has zero vibration.

canucklehead

iTrader: (9)

i agree with ~$150 for pads all around, and another ~$250 for rotors all around if you go that way. Centric Premium rotors are a great way to go for a OE-equivalent rotor. go with Akebono ProACT pads for OE-equivalent pads. as blnewt mentioned, rockauto has great pricing. you'll be well over $1k at the dealer for front/rear pads/rotors/fluid.

a brake fluid flush/fill is ~$100 or so and any reputable shop can do this simple service. while i DIY as much as i can, i leave hydraulic fluid bleeding to others. i would suggest taking it in somewhere to have this done before you do the brake hardware. once you find this shop, most independent shops will install customer-supplied parts which saves a bunch on the markup - so you'll only pay labor. or, even better, DIY the brake hardware. it is very simple with basic hand tools and a bit of your time and elbow grease.

if you are not comfortable assessing your rotor condition they could check the rotor wear/runout/thickness and report back to you. then you can decide what parts are needed - just pads or pads & rotors. another option is to just resurface the rotors if there is enough material to do so. again, the shop can tell you this. very routine inspection items.

JinV36

Idk if I got raped but for front and rear pads + front rotors was around 650$ for me

ChinkyChoy

iTrader: (2)

^ that's how much I paid for my akebono calipers

4DOORFUN

OK. I got a quote of about $820 for new pads and rotors front and rear. This shop strongly suggest new rotors over keeping mine. They said of course I don't have to purchase new rotors, but that they cannot guarantee no vibration with the new pads. He said the stock rotor thickness is likely worn down after 46K miles.

I feel like I could probably get away with no new rotors for a while, but what will they feel like in 15-20K miles? I would imagine the rotor only has so much thickness to give before they warp. I don't want to get new pads and rotors again in 20K miles because of warped rotors. I also plan on keeping the car another 3-5 years.

This is for all OEM replacement parts. What do you think?

canucklehead

iTrader: (9)

remaining rotor thickness can easily be measured so you will know for certain if there is enough meat left to re-surface and re-install. i would suggest a re-surface if you have enough thickness left. you can find min. thickness specs in the manual. i know i've seen the specs in the service manual, but pretty sure the OM has them too.

socketz67

My dealer told me that the sport brake rotors can be turned at least once.

$250 per axle doesn't seem that bad for brakes and turning the rotors.

The Akebono OEM pads are $100. Turning the rotors is probably another $100.

G37sPhoton

You can turn the oem rotors at least once...I did for for my S sedan at around ~44k due to vibration, did under warranty. I'm at 63k now and starting to hear a mild squeak now and then so interested in options as well...

socketz67

What's the best option for slotted or drilled sport brake replacements?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Stoptech, check rockauto.com for pricing
I've used brakeperformance.com rotors as have many others around here and are decent for a budget rotor, just stay clear of their pkg deals w/ their "house" pads, get Stoptech or other name pads.

afar1

If you DIY, buy the pads from tire rack, amazon, rock auto; akebono proact front pads around $60, rear around $40. Changing the pads is easier than changing the oil, just watch one of the many you tube videos specifically for the G sport sedan. If your brake pedal and/or steering wheel vibrate, your front rotors are almost done. If your car body vibrates when braking, your rear ones are bad, too (you can feel it in your seat, if you pay attention to your bottom). Turning the rotors may give you another 6 months to a year, depending on your style of driving. If you slam on your brakes alot and don't manually rev match, the OEM rotors won't last much longer. The longer you wait to turn them, the less time you will get out of them. It's not dangerous, just annoying. OEM rotors aren't that expensive, and changing them yourself is also relatively easy, if you have the correct tools. I'd recommend stoptech plain rotors for regular street driving.
Changing or flushing the brake fluid at 40-50K miles is over rated, imo. I took my G37sport sedan with 90K miles, to track last year, no brake issues whatsoever with the OEM brake fluid. It also still has the original transmission fluid, again, no problems (sorry for going off topic).
If you're looking for performance rotors, for track purposes, I'd recommend SLOTTED stop tech rotors, which is what I installed on my Q60 IPL (yes, I love infiniti!) and performed beautifully on track 3 weeks ago. I've heard from die hard track guys that drilled rotors are not for track, since they have a higher chances of breaking under track conditions. If you want the performance look, drilled should be ok for regular street driving.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

Brake fluid naturally attracts water, reducing it's wet boiling temperature over time--meaning it loses its effectiveness and overheats. Considering how easy it is to bleed brakes, I don't see why you would go 90K without bleeding your brakes.