jsampsell

iTrader: (3)

Thanks man. Although I have to say that it's not really about being picky. It's about being practical and making sure that I can get the most out of the money I spend. That's all. Thanks for the reminder of Rochester's car. It was one of the first cars that I came across on this forum that made me want modify my car. He's got great taste. Well, similar to mine anyway, so of course I think it's great taste. Ha!

Yep, this is correct. I bought the upgraded Swift springs for my Fortune Auto coilovers. The rear is a combination of the swift springs with an adjustable top mount and an adjustable replacement shock. All I've dealt with to this point is the ride height. Once I have the 8" springs to fix that, I'm going to dial in the combination of the spring/shock combo. I didn't purchase the extenders originally but after realizing that without them you have to take out the shock every time you want to adjust the ride quality, I went ahead and spent the $45.

I'm on 20x9s, 245/35R20 on all four corners.

The front, for whatever reason, has plenty of room for adjustment. I just figured it was the difference in coilover versus spring only. Maybe others here can shed some light on that for us both.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

The main reason that the rears have a smaller adjustment range is the rear adjustable spring collar/perch, if you made it much longer stability & strength would become an issue.

Dj1ofDet

iTrader: (5)

Hey OP, make sure to get give some feedback on ride noise. Any sounds coming from the suspension when hitting bumps under say 50 mph?

jsampsell

iTrader: (3)

I'm leery of saying anything yet since my setup isn't really finalized. I could say something today and then something I do during the spring swap might change what I said. I realize that seems a bit unlikely seeing that swapping out the rear springs is very simple, but you never know. Sometimes you mess with something that you don't even know you messed with.

With that said, I do not hear any noises at all from the front. I do hear a little bit of ticking or clacking (I've thought a good bit about how to describe the noise and I'm having difficulty finding the right word or words that accurately describe the sound) from the rear. And it sounds as if it is more on the right side of the car. Since I have to swap the springs out back there anyway, I figured I'd troubleshoot it if the issue still remains once the new springs are in.

As for road noise, the first thing that made road noise louder was going to the 20x9 wheels with 245/35R20 tires. I'm sure that a good amount of people here already know why that is, but, for the sake of those who may not, I'll go into a little bit of detail. Losing that much sidewall and having more solid material (the larger wheel itself) to transfer vibration/noise into the cabin definitely made the road noise go up. I compensated for that a good bit by treating the floor of the car with a double layer of Second Skin's Heat Wave Pro material. It is technically for reducing/blocking heat but it has sound blocking/absorbing properties to it as well. Plus, I was able to get much more of that for the money than I could the actual noise reduction products. In my previous car, I had a competition level sound system so I practically covered the entire interior surfaces (underneath the carpets, seats, and trim of course) in a product similar to Dynamat. I learned the hard way that that product is not really for noise reduction but for vibration/resonance reduction. Large pieces of metal when vibrating while riding down the road will produce resonating frequencies that can be introduced into the cabin as noise. The Dynamat stuff simply adds density to the surfaces it is adhered to which helps reduce the vibration, which then reduces the resonance. But it has no sound absorbing qualities. Noise is just physical sound waves travelling through the air. The interior of a car has many solid surfaces (at different angles too) to be bounced off of. One way of reducing perceived noise level is by those sound waves being mostly absorbed instead of bouncing back to be picked up by our ears.

Anyhow, all that to say, I had a pretty good idea of what I was doing when I used the Heat Wave Pro material. I wasn't after a coffin quiet cabin (well, not yet anyway) so I used a material that was cheap but had sound blocking and absorbing properties. In the end, my interior noise level was reduced by 2db, which is about a 1/3 quieter than it was without the treatment. I was happy with those results for the price and effort.

As far as noise level goes after installing the coilovers, I actually expected an increase. Lowering the vehicle brings the entire body of the car closer to the ground so of course the noise level will go up. And, yes, as expected, the noise level definitely went up. This is where the issue gets subjective, though. Is the increase in noise level an acceptable offset to the new look you get with lowering the car? Some may think it's way too loud and getting their stock stuff back on can't happen fast enough. Others may not notice the difference at all. And still others may notice it but it doesn't bother them. I'm sure I'm not telling you something you don't already know. Just putting it out there as a part of the detailed information found in this thread.

I'll report again after it is all done.

Dj1ofDet

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for checking in. The sound that you're describing is similar to that which I'm experiencing (along with many others) with my BC Coilovers. I'm not running Swift springs, but have been considering it along with air ride. Laying some sound dampening material in the interior is a good idea to help with the reduction of cabin noise. Hopefully that rear right-side noise can get fixed. In my experience, warmer temperatures eases the sound a little.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Good stuff Jsampsell, be sure to post in the Fortune Review Thread when you get some more seat time w/ them.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...er-review.html

P'sLPG

I called and had my order changed to the 8 inch rear springs before they ship mine out. The lowering range with the 8 inch is supposedly 3/4-2.5 inches lower than stock. I would definitely rather have max setting around 1 inch I stead of the 2 inches you guys described. Especially since we still can get to the 2 inches lower if need be. Thanks for all your help. I'm definitely new to the modding game and Infiniti in genral.
Patrick

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Keep us posted Patrick, sounds like that's going to work out well for your needs. Look forward to pics and again, post a review in the fortune review thread that I linked.
Brad

Jethro

iTrader: (3)

I hope you guys find a solution. It sounds like THMotorsports and FA are willing to help out with that longer rear spring.

I have been on vacation, but had some PM's with Upscale Speed and I never tried to raise my car up for winter. So I did not encounter the same problem he did with ride height in the rear. But I wanted the car low, which is not what will work for everyone.

Arrogant

Jethro, how low were you dropped in this picture?

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...ml#post3831478


That is probably as low as I would ever want to go.

Jethro

iTrader: (3)

I am roughly at 26-1/2" measured from the ground to top of wheel fender arch in that pic. It's as low as I want to go with a DD.

connoisseurr

iTrader: (5)

I'm assuming all of you are using F+R camber kits while installing these coils? My Fortune 500 coils are still sitting in a box as I wasn't sure if I wanted to install them or go the bag route.

Currently I'm just on swift springs and the stock camber adjustments are maxed out so I'm assuming anything lower would require a camber kit.

Just wanted to see what you all are using with regards to a camber kit.

jsampsell

iTrader: (3)

I installed the front kit and have the rear kit to install if I need it. It seems like I may be able to get away with not using the rear kit at the height I want to run but I'm contemplating installing it anyway so that I have the ability to go lower in the future if desired. My only hesitation is that one you drill out that bolt hole, there's no going back. Everything else is easy to put back to stock if needed.

I'm not sure how low the swift springs sit the car to know what the difference is. I've read, and have been told, that if you go lower than 1.5 inches, you'll probably need the rear kit. Not sure about the front. I found a good deal on both the front and rear kits so I went ahead and picked them up. I figure if I really don't need one or the other, I can just sell them later.

I want to clarify something. Are we all X sedans here? I just want to make sure we are all talking apples for apples. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure there's a difference in ride height between the X and non-X models so talking overall height could change things if we were to get mixed up somehow. As an X, I started at a ride height of 28.5 inches. I'm not sure what the non-X models are.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

The X models are a bit higher, but using height from the ground to the fender (looks-wise) will be the same. Actual drop to get to the same height from the ground will be more for an X, not sure how much difference though.

As far as elongating the toe slot, as long as it's done properly, exactly the same slot height (no slop) you can still go back to the OEM toe bolts, they just don't have the bolt mounted as far out on the concentric washer.

connoisseurr

iTrader: (5)

Well they do make Fortune 500 for RWD models, but I'm most certain the majority of the folks in here have X sedans - only because the FA 500 AWD setup is the best coilover system for the price.

Thanks for the input regarding the camber kit. I just need to buy one. Whatever the swift springs lowered me, I plan on dropping another 3/4" or maybe 1". My good friend has a set of the FA 500 coils on her 370z and the ride is spectacular. So much better than the Z on lowering springs.