Anyone go back to stock springs on purpose?
08-28-2014, 01:17 PM
#46
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iTrader: (8)
Does anyone know the guy, redlude97, that posted the spring mount shaving/cutting DIY over on the 35 forum? The pictures no longer show up and was wondering if someone might be able to contact him to re-up them. I'm still doing my research on this and would really like to see the process necessary for using S springs on the rear.
DIY: Spring Mount Shaving/Cutting:
DIY: Cutting Rear Springmount aka "the springmount mod" - G35Driver
DIY: Spring Mount Shaving/Cutting:
DIY: Cutting Rear Springmount aka "the springmount mod" - G35Driver
That really was a great write-up, though.
08-28-2014, 01:27 PM
#47
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iTrader: (8)
I am experiencing the same thing, and it's not the sways. It sounds like it's coming from somewhere in the rear bulkhead / parcel shelf or somewhere in the rear of the unibody 
. It's a topic that I've never broached on the forum because I figured everyone would chalk it up to the sways needing some lube.
. It's a topic that I've never broached on the forum because I figured everyone would chalk it up to the sways needing some lube.Weird, huh? I'm wondering if it's the OEM rear end-links on the swaybar? IIRC, aftermarket sways don't matter as long as you're at OEM ride height. Maybe the combo of being lowered with stiffer sways is causing the OEM end-links to complain and groan? Either way, I suspect some heavy-duty, adjustable end-links are in my future. Probably next Spring.
Last edited by Rochester; 08-28-2014 at 01:36 PM.
08-28-2014, 01:28 PM
#48
Does anyone know the guy, redlude97, that posted the spring mount shaving/cutting DIY over on the 35 forum? The pictures no longer show up and was wondering if someone might be able to contact him to re-up them. I'm still doing my research on this and would really like to see the process necessary for using S springs on the rear.
DIY: Spring Mount Shaving/Cutting:
DIY: Cutting Rear Springmount aka "the springmount mod" - G35Driver
DIY: Spring Mount Shaving/Cutting:
DIY: Cutting Rear Springmount aka "the springmount mod" - G35Driver
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jsampsell (08-28-2014),
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08-28-2014, 02:08 PM
#49
Yes! It does seem to be coming from the rear. At least, that's what my kids and wife tell me... I'm deaf in one ear.
Weird, huh? I'm wondering if it's the OEM rear end-links on the swaybar? IIRC, aftermarket sways don't matter as long as you're at OEM ride height. Maybe the combo of being lowered with stiffer sways is causing the OEM end-links to complain and groan? Either way, I suspect some heavy-duty, adjustable end-links are in my future. Probably next Spring.
Weird, huh? I'm wondering if it's the OEM rear end-links on the swaybar? IIRC, aftermarket sways don't matter as long as you're at OEM ride height. Maybe the combo of being lowered with stiffer sways is causing the OEM end-links to complain and groan? Either way, I suspect some heavy-duty, adjustable end-links are in my future. Probably next Spring.
Definitely weird for sure. When I first had my sways, the bolt holding the end link to the sway bar came off. So the end link was dangling. Definitely felt strange driving. Wound up having to buy a new factory end link because the bolt "free wheeling" in the bar caused the threads to compress/strip out. Bolted the new one down tight and haven't had any issues.
I would definitely be interested in going with beefier aftermarket end links to see if that improves it any.
08-28-2014, 03:02 PM
#51
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There are a number of manufacturers for aftermarket end-links to our cars. I've never researched it thoroughly, because I always thought I had years to go before it was a consideration. I only have 20K miles on my car.
08-28-2014, 03:07 PM
#52
Registered Member
Just noticed that your sig said Eibach sways. For some reason I thought you were on Hotchkiss.
Definitely weird for sure. When I first had my sways, the bolt holding the end link to the sway bar came off. So the end link was dangling. Definitely felt strange driving. Wound up having to buy a new factory end link because the bolt "free wheeling" in the bar caused the threads to compress/strip out. Bolted the new one down tight and haven't had any issues.
I would definitely be interested in going with beefier aftermarket end links to see if that improves it any.
Definitely weird for sure. When I first had my sways, the bolt holding the end link to the sway bar came off. So the end link was dangling. Definitely felt strange driving. Wound up having to buy a new factory end link because the bolt "free wheeling" in the bar caused the threads to compress/strip out. Bolted the new one down tight and haven't had any issues.
I would definitely be interested in going with beefier aftermarket end links to see if that improves it any.
08-28-2014, 03:42 PM
#53
I uploaded the pictures to my Photobucket account and posted this over on that forum.
Here's a link to that thread again: DIY: Cutting Rear Springmount aka "the springmount mod" - Page 17 - G35Driver
Here's a link to that thread again: DIY: Cutting Rear Springmount aka "the springmount mod" - Page 17 - G35Driver
I found this post while looking for ways to only slightly lower my G37x. I really wanted to see these pictures as I'm a visual person. I noticed that the picture links were dead and looked like they were from when the OP was at college. I found an archived version of the page (thanks to being introduced to the Internet time machine) and downloaded the archived pictures. I have uploaded them to my Photobucket account and credited the OP with a link to this thread. I thought I'd re-post the original content with the new picture links for anyone else who may need and/or want to see this in the future.
Jeremy
Jeremy
Since I keep getting PMs about this mod, and I needed to get a couple more MM of clearance in the rear. I decided to purchase a new set up rear springmounts and recut them, taking a little bit less off this time. Credit goes to Gsedan35, who was the first to do this, and Borahatch for giving me tips on how to go about cutting the mounts.
See Gsedan35's DIY on installing springs to remove the rear springmounts.
g-owners.com
The pieces look something like this:
Side
Top
Tools:
Hacksaw
Tape
C-Clamp
Vise
WD-40 or similar lubricating spray
Rags
Start by taping a ring around the springmount of exactly how much you want to cut off. How much you cut will be how much more drop you will get so measure accordingly before cutting. I used Duct tape, but anything will work as long as it sticks to the rubber. I don't recommend blue painter's tape, because I used it the first time and it doesn't really stick to the rubber.
Next, get a rag or in my case some disposable gloves and insert into the hollowed out end of the springmount to provide a cushioned area for the C-clamp to seat to. Install the C-Clamp like in the picture and tighten until the springmount is difficult to rotate/move. Make sure to not overclamp or you can crack the plastic.
Insert the C-Clamp into your vise to provide a stable cutting rig
Get out your hacksaw and WD-40 or equiv
Begin by lubricating your hacksaw blade and springmount by spraying WD-40 onto the blade and rubber, and begin sawing along your tapeline. The outer ring of the springmount is rubber, but the inner ring is made of a plastic, so saw through the plastic. Loosen the clamp and rotate the mount 1 notch and retighten and continue sawing until you cut all the way around the mount, being careful to cut as straight and evenly as you can.
Once you finish cutting, you should end up with something that looks like this, they aren't exactly straight, but close enough, I've been running them for 6 months and no problems here
Here is a comparison of the height difference after cutting, ~1/2"
Reinstall in stock location
End up with a even drop! Dropped on 350z Tein H-Techs, but will work with any spring
Be prepared for camber issues in the rear, just like any drop in the rear over 0.4", I installed the SPC rear camber kit as well and will be getting an alignment soon.
See Gsedan35's DIY on installing springs to remove the rear springmounts.
g-owners.com
The pieces look something like this:
Side
Top
Tools:
Hacksaw
Tape
C-Clamp
Vise
WD-40 or similar lubricating spray
Rags
Start by taping a ring around the springmount of exactly how much you want to cut off. How much you cut will be how much more drop you will get so measure accordingly before cutting. I used Duct tape, but anything will work as long as it sticks to the rubber. I don't recommend blue painter's tape, because I used it the first time and it doesn't really stick to the rubber.
Next, get a rag or in my case some disposable gloves and insert into the hollowed out end of the springmount to provide a cushioned area for the C-clamp to seat to. Install the C-Clamp like in the picture and tighten until the springmount is difficult to rotate/move. Make sure to not overclamp or you can crack the plastic.
Insert the C-Clamp into your vise to provide a stable cutting rig
Get out your hacksaw and WD-40 or equiv
Begin by lubricating your hacksaw blade and springmount by spraying WD-40 onto the blade and rubber, and begin sawing along your tapeline. The outer ring of the springmount is rubber, but the inner ring is made of a plastic, so saw through the plastic. Loosen the clamp and rotate the mount 1 notch and retighten and continue sawing until you cut all the way around the mount, being careful to cut as straight and evenly as you can.
Once you finish cutting, you should end up with something that looks like this, they aren't exactly straight, but close enough, I've been running them for 6 months and no problems here
Here is a comparison of the height difference after cutting, ~1/2"
Reinstall in stock location
End up with a even drop! Dropped on 350z Tein H-Techs, but will work with any spring
Be prepared for camber issues in the rear, just like any drop in the rear over 0.4", I installed the SPC rear camber kit as well and will be getting an alignment soon.
The following 2 users liked this post by jsampsell:
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08-28-2014, 04:20 PM
#54
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
That's not the thread I thought you were talking about. There's a similar thread about using an ES bushing, beveled on the inner ring to fit, in order to *raise* the car's rear 1/2". Swift Springs for the RWD Sedan leave an unbalanced gap front to rear. Rear is a little low.
Ah, here it is: http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-brak...-too-pics.html
Ah, here it is: http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-brak...-too-pics.html
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blnewt (08-28-2014)
08-28-2014, 06:34 PM
#56
Thanks for linking both those up, I think I'll sticky each one in the suspension folder that way if a DIY fix is needed for raising or lowering the ****, both bases are covered 
Done~
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...uspension.html
Done~
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...uspension.html
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jsampsell (08-29-2014)
08-28-2014, 06:55 PM
#57
Host the pics somewhere and post them here in this thread.
Go for it. If it works out for you, I'll be following suit sooner than later.
There are a number of manufacturers for aftermarket end-links to our cars. I've never researched it thoroughly, because I always thought I had years to go before it was a consideration. I only have 20K miles on my car.
Go for it. If it works out for you, I'll be following suit sooner than later.
There are a number of manufacturers for aftermarket end-links to our cars. I've never researched it thoroughly, because I always thought I had years to go before it was a consideration. I only have 20K miles on my car.
I would love to find the time to pull the rear seat out and try to isolate where that creaking is coming from and see what can be done, if anything to rectify it.
Basically, the end link was in the swaybar, except the nut that holds it there was not present-- it fell off. So the end link bolt was not secured to the sway bar. No adverse affects in non-spirited driving. It just feels like your sway bar is a giant twizzler. All benefits of the sway are lost in that instance.
08-28-2014, 08:48 PM
#58
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
SPL Rear Sway Bar End Links (350Z / 370Z / G35 / G37)
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twin_snails (08-29-2014)
08-28-2014, 09:54 PM
#59
Registered User
i bought new rims and tires last month as my first major mod for my car, its an X and its stock height, not a single person in real life has told me to drop the car or its a 4x4 a lot of people have complimented me on the rims.. the whole drop the car etc i think is an internet enthusiast thing, i even got staggered tire for the because race car factor
and within 2 weeks i had a flat tire and was a major headache to deal with as i couldnt use the spare.. anyways go with what you like but remember its a car to be driven and not be looked at and get compliments from internet crowd, just saying...
and within 2 weeks i had a flat tire and was a major headache to deal with as i couldnt use the spare.. anyways go with what you like but remember its a car to be driven and not be looked at and get compliments from internet crowd, just saying...
08-28-2014, 11:08 PM
#60
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
I used to think that. My opinion was pretty fierce on the matter, too. However, if you push the wheels out flush on the G, then it looks better dropped an inch or so. It just does. Maybe you need to go through it personally to understand. That's what it took for me. I don't mind saying that I'm a little humbled with the about-face, but hey, never too old to learn something new about a hobby.
And believe me, there was no peer pressure on the matter, internet or otherwise. I don't have a crew of friends mocking my ride height. I'm just an old, suburban Dad, and most of my friends are south of 60 years old.
Think about it, man.
And believe me, there was no peer pressure on the matter, internet or otherwise. I don't have a crew of friends mocking my ride height. I'm just an old, suburban Dad, and most of my friends are south of 60 years old.
Think about it, man.
Last edited by Rochester; 08-28-2014 at 11:16 PM.
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jsampsell (08-29-2014)