Sedan Chat Thread
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
Can anyone recommend a good set of interior LEDs that 1) are similar brightness to OEM lights and 2) are pure white (no blue tint)? Put LEDs in my old car, but they were far too bright (blinding even) and had an undesirable blue hue.
Reached out to VLED & DD about this but came up inconclusive.
Any help much appreciated, thanks
Reached out to VLED & DD about this but came up inconclusive.
Any help much appreciated, thanks
Here's another bit of advice: more often than not, replacement interior LED lighting sucks for practical use. It might look really fascinating, but when it comes to being useful, it doesn't work as well as the OEM incandescent bulbs. So if you buy into that opinion, I recommend you focus on bulbs labeled as "warm white".
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
Yes. Absolutely. Which is why I'd be lucky if STM were to expand their tuning services to the G/Z community. And not just because of the location convenience, but because of their experience. I've been to their shop... these aren't amateurs ricing out Lancer evo-wannabees.
Registered Member
Hm never thought of Phillips, good idea, but it's hard to tell the color & brightness from their website. Do you have them? Pics?
Here's the website in case anyone wants to check it out:
Philips Automotive Bulb Look-up | Find bulbs for your vehicle
EDIT: Reviews for Phillips' interior LEDs say the color is very warm/yellow (around 3000K, although actual temperature isn't advertised)
Here's the website in case anyone wants to check it out:
Philips Automotive Bulb Look-up | Find bulbs for your vehicle
EDIT: Reviews for Phillips' interior LEDs say the color is very warm/yellow (around 3000K, although actual temperature isn't advertised)
Registered Member
Replacement interior bulbs are inexpensive, so one way to look at this project is to not sweat the details, buy some bulbs, and choose for yourself.
Here's another bit of advice: more often than not, replacement interior LED lighting sucks for practical use. It might look really fascinating, but when it comes to being useful, it doesn't work as well as the OEM incandescent bulbs. So if you buy into that opinion, I recommend you focus on bulbs labeled as "warm white".
Here's another bit of advice: more often than not, replacement interior LED lighting sucks for practical use. It might look really fascinating, but when it comes to being useful, it doesn't work as well as the OEM incandescent bulbs. So if you buy into that opinion, I recommend you focus on bulbs labeled as "warm white".
But yes this would be in the form over function category, trying to limit the compromise though...
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
The following users liked this post:
STownSaint (01-16-2017)
Premier Member
iTrader: (5)
The OEM engine in the S2's is a 3.0L 16V straight four, but most 944's came with the 2.5L four. None came with a V8 from the factory, so your buddy's car was most likely an LS conversion, like NICO mentioned (which is what I'm planning), or it's a 928 and not a 944.
LOL. Porsche likes to confuse us with all of their 900 Series models. 911, 914, 924, 928, 944, and the 968 (etc..) which is essentially the same as my 944 S2, but they eliminated the 80's pop-up style headlights in favor of more Porsche like fixed round headlights and the manual tranny gained a gear.
Yup, sounds like your buddy's car is probably a 928. The 928 became famous when Tom Cruise took his parents 928 out for a joy ride in the movie Risky Business.
Registered Member
Originally Posted by STownSaint
Can anyone recommend a good set of interior LEDs that 1) are similar brightness to OEM lights and 2) are pure white (no blue tint)? Put LEDs in my old car, but they were far too bright (blinding even) and had an undesirable blue hue.
Reached out to VLED & DD about this but came up inconclusive.
Any help much appreciated, thanks
Reached out to VLED & DD about this but came up inconclusive.
Any help much appreciated, thanks
Registered Member
iTrader: (15)
Can anyone recommend a good set of interior LEDs that 1) are similar brightness to OEM lights and 2) are pure white (no blue tint)? Put LEDs in my old car, but they were far too bright (blinding even) and had an undesirable blue hue.
Reached out to VLED & DD about this but came up inconclusive.
Any help much appreciated, thanks
Reached out to VLED & DD about this but came up inconclusive.
Any help much appreciated, thanks
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
So these showed up today. I immediately put them on the dining room table, for 4DRZ to enjoy.
The following users liked this post:
VIVID (01-17-2017)
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
I think these parts have been sitting in the box, factory packed, for a long, long time. Dusty surface-rust on the ring. And there's one tooth on the ring with the tiniest little nick at the corner. Not that any of that matters, but it still made less of an impression than it would have if the parts were pristine and black, instead of this old steampunk look.
$592 shipped from The Nismo Shop.
$252 shipped from The Nismo Shop for the diff rebuild kit.
$110 shipped from Z1 Motorsports for the Whiteline bushings.
$33 shipped from Amazon for Redline gear oil.
$987 so far on this project... figure anywhere between $400 and $600 for the install.
$592 shipped from The Nismo Shop.
$252 shipped from The Nismo Shop for the diff rebuild kit.
$110 shipped from Z1 Motorsports for the Whiteline bushings.
$33 shipped from Amazon for Redline gear oil.
$987 so far on this project... figure anywhere between $400 and $600 for the install.
Registered Member
iTrader: (4)
I think these parts have been sitting in the box, factory packed, for a long, long time. Dusty surface-rust on the ring. And there's one tooth on the ring with the tiniest little nick at the corner. Not that any of that matters, but it still made less of an impression than it would have if the parts were pristine and black, instead of this old steampunk look.
$592 shipped from The Nismo Shop.
$252 shipped from The Nismo Shop for the diff rebuild kit.
$110 shipped from Z1 Motorsports for the Whiteline bushings.
$33 shipped from Amazon for Redline gear oil.
$987 so far on this project... figure anywhere between $400 and $600 for the install.
$592 shipped from The Nismo Shop.
$252 shipped from The Nismo Shop for the diff rebuild kit.
$110 shipped from Z1 Motorsports for the Whiteline bushings.
$33 shipped from Amazon for Redline gear oil.
$987 so far on this project... figure anywhere between $400 and $600 for the install.
I've got a few plans for my car this weekend. I will begin Friday night and hope to wrap things up late Saturday.
- Oil change
- Install Motordyne E370 catback exhaust
- Raise coilovers to 26.25 FTG
- Wrap tailights in a very light smoke
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
Between the G and Z community, the general consensus seems to be a 10% improvement in acceleration, necessitating quicker shifts to 2nd and 3rd, and a bump in highway RPM while in 6th... meaning, reduced MPG on road trips. So yeah, I'm anticipating a big fun-factor mod here. What does "10%" mean in reality? Probably 2 or 3 tenths of a second zero-to-60. Which, quite frankly, is huge. Pretty sure there's no better bolt-on NA power mod you can do for the 6MT than rear gears. For the auto-x crowd, I suspect you still live in 2nd gear, but with a lot more twist. And for the drag-racing crowd, I suspect there are gains compromised by needing a shift into 5th. For the track racer (and daily driver), the added frequency of shifting might become a PITA...
...then again, with the RJM Pedal and TWM STS, shifting is a joy, not a chore.
IDK, MaQG37. It's all a hack, and it's all hearsay. I just want to have fun with the car while still being drive-able. (Knock on wood)
That's going to make you smile.
Last edited by Rochester; 01-18-2017 at 12:48 PM.
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
Between the G and Z community, the general consensus seems to be a 10% improvement in acceleration, necessitating quicker shifts to 2nd and 3rd, and a bump in highway RPM while in 6th... meaning, reduced MPG on road trips. So yeah, I'm anticipating a big fun-factor mod here. What does "10%" mean in reality? Probably 2 or 3 tenths of a second zero-to-60. Which, quite frankly, is huge.
Maybe 2 to 3 tenths in the quarter, but I don't think that would translate into 0-60. Traction is going to be more difficult unless you're running some sort of drag radial, and we just barely dip over 60 in 2nd, so it might require a shift to 3rd to hit 60.
Nonetheless, I bet it turns out to be a great seat of the pants mod, which for me at least, would be all that matters