Engine Compatibility with 2008 G37 Coupe
01-18-2017, 06:46 PM
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Engine Compatibility with 2008 G37 Coupe
Hi everyone, I need your help.
I need a new engine for my coupe and after all the research I've done on forums, websites, tuner shops, dealers, etc, I still don't have a solid conclusion or an answer about getting a newer model engine (2009+) that would work on my 2008 Coupe.
I have a 2008 G37S RWD with 5AT at almost 200K Miles. I know for a fact some forum members here swapped engines with success but they were all 2009+ models. For some reason, all the newer model engines I found on Ebay or other sites mentioned that they were compatible with only 2009 and up. Some dealers and Tuner shops agreed with that. But others said that I should not have any problems swapping any VQ37VHR engine either comes from a G37, 350/370Z, or even from a Q50/60 models. I am really stuck at this point and need your advise to make a decision on a used engine that has no internal issues and would be 100% compatible.
Please let me know if you have any experience or knowledge about this.
Thank you!
Bahoni
I need a new engine for my coupe and after all the research I've done on forums, websites, tuner shops, dealers, etc, I still don't have a solid conclusion or an answer about getting a newer model engine (2009+) that would work on my 2008 Coupe.
I have a 2008 G37S RWD with 5AT at almost 200K Miles. I know for a fact some forum members here swapped engines with success but they were all 2009+ models. For some reason, all the newer model engines I found on Ebay or other sites mentioned that they were compatible with only 2009 and up. Some dealers and Tuner shops agreed with that. But others said that I should not have any problems swapping any VQ37VHR engine either comes from a G37, 350/370Z, or even from a Q50/60 models. I am really stuck at this point and need your advise to make a decision on a used engine that has no internal issues and would be 100% compatible.
Please let me know if you have any experience or knowledge about this.
Thank you!
Bahoni
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Bahoni (01-28-2017)
01-22-2017, 12:01 AM
#3
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Thank you, xnick101. I think the long block itself is the same as far as dimensions, etc. What I am worried that some of the parts on the engine may be different in size, placement, feature, etc. But if there is a difference that I can't get around it by using a different part, than I am stuck with a engine that won't fit my car and most likely I won't be able to return it back since I am going to buy a used one.
I had a slight knocking sound coming from the engine started almost 2 months ago. I took it to few mechanics to see how serious it was. Some said it was a faulty fuel pump that doesn't circulate the oil evenly. One dealer said that it was infamous vvel knock that there was a TSB for it back in 2009 I think. Finally I showed it to a local mechanic that had right diagnose for the knocking issue. He was sure it was one of the rod bearings or the piston head. But he didn't have proper tools or computer to pinpoint the issue. Then He realized that knocking only occurred after the engine warmed up, lets say about after 10-15 minutes. This made him little suspicious since rod knocking should be present as soon as the engine started. Then we thought it may be one of the valve caps that may got loose or faulty. Long story short, I decided to take it to an another dealership who said could diagnose the problem without taking the engine apart. I tried to drive the car as little as possible till I get it fixed in all that time. The dealer was 150 miles away from where I lived. I had no choice to drive it there. They found the problem in the 4th cylinder. But further diagnose to pinpoint which part actually was faulty, They had to take look inside.
They gave me 2 options:
fix the engine which will cost around 5 grand, or get a new engine which will cost me roughly 12K. Of course they were tripled the part prices if not doubled. Since I knew where the actual problem was, I decided to take to my mechanic which is 30/h (friend deal) versus $160/h at dealership. Dealership thinks its will be an 20 hours job. I didn't have 5 grand anyway, so I drove back but unfortunately didn't make it home.A part of the connecting rod came out of the block the second I realized something wasn't right. I was able to pull over to safety. I knew I shouldn't drive it that long but I had no choice. I might sound as a cheap-***, by not fixing the engine earlier, or, fix it locally. But I Had limited options. Now, I think fixing that engine is out of the question. So I am trying to find a decent engine but everyone is saying many different things. I am hoping to get a reasonable answer from someone who experienced a similar thing. My budget is very limited and I love my car, It almost 200k on it but except the blown engine, it is great car.
I had a slight knocking sound coming from the engine started almost 2 months ago. I took it to few mechanics to see how serious it was. Some said it was a faulty fuel pump that doesn't circulate the oil evenly. One dealer said that it was infamous vvel knock that there was a TSB for it back in 2009 I think. Finally I showed it to a local mechanic that had right diagnose for the knocking issue. He was sure it was one of the rod bearings or the piston head. But he didn't have proper tools or computer to pinpoint the issue. Then He realized that knocking only occurred after the engine warmed up, lets say about after 10-15 minutes. This made him little suspicious since rod knocking should be present as soon as the engine started. Then we thought it may be one of the valve caps that may got loose or faulty. Long story short, I decided to take it to an another dealership who said could diagnose the problem without taking the engine apart. I tried to drive the car as little as possible till I get it fixed in all that time. The dealer was 150 miles away from where I lived. I had no choice to drive it there. They found the problem in the 4th cylinder. But further diagnose to pinpoint which part actually was faulty, They had to take look inside.
They gave me 2 options:
fix the engine which will cost around 5 grand, or get a new engine which will cost me roughly 12K. Of course they were tripled the part prices if not doubled. Since I knew where the actual problem was, I decided to take to my mechanic which is 30/h (friend deal) versus $160/h at dealership. Dealership thinks its will be an 20 hours job. I didn't have 5 grand anyway, so I drove back but unfortunately didn't make it home.A part of the connecting rod came out of the block the second I realized something wasn't right. I was able to pull over to safety. I knew I shouldn't drive it that long but I had no choice. I might sound as a cheap-***, by not fixing the engine earlier, or, fix it locally. But I Had limited options. Now, I think fixing that engine is out of the question. So I am trying to find a decent engine but everyone is saying many different things. I am hoping to get a reasonable answer from someone who experienced a similar thing. My budget is very limited and I love my car, It almost 200k on it but except the blown engine, it is great car.
01-22-2017, 12:04 PM
#5
Thank you, xnick101. I think the long block itself is the same as far as dimensions, etc. What I am worried that some of the parts on the engine may be different in size, placement, feature, etc. But if there is a difference that I can't get around it by using a different part, than I am stuck with a engine that won't fit my car and most likely I won't be able to return it back since I am going to buy a used one.
I had a slight knocking sound coming from the engine started almost 2 months ago. I took it to few mechanics to see how serious it was. Some said it was a faulty fuel pump that doesn't circulate the oil evenly. One dealer said that it was infamous vvel knock that there was a TSB for it back in 2009 I think. Finally I showed it to a local mechanic that had right diagnose for the knocking issue. He was sure it was one of the rod bearings or the piston head. But he didn't have proper tools or computer to pinpoint the issue. Then He realized that knocking only occurred after the engine warmed up, lets say about after 10-15 minutes. This made him little suspicious since rod knocking should be present as soon as the engine started. Then we thought it may be one of the valve caps that may got loose or faulty. Long story short, I decided to take it to an another dealership who said could diagnose the problem without taking the engine apart. I tried to drive the car as little as possible till I get it fixed in all that time. The dealer was 150 miles away from where I lived. I had no choice to drive it there. They found the problem in the 4th cylinder. But further diagnose to pinpoint which part actually was faulty, They had to take look inside.
They gave me 2 options:
fix the engine which will cost around 5 grand, or get a new engine which will cost me roughly 12K. Of course they were tripled the part prices if not doubled. Since I knew where the actual problem was, I decided to take to my mechanic which is 30/h (friend deal) versus $160/h at dealership. Dealership thinks its will be an 20 hours job. I didn't have 5 grand anyway, so I drove back but unfortunately didn't make it home.A part of the connecting rod came out of the block the second I realized something wasn't right. I was able to pull over to safety. I knew I shouldn't drive it that long but I had no choice. I might sound as a cheap-***, by not fixing the engine earlier, or, fix it locally. But I Had limited options. Now, I think fixing that engine is out of the question. So I am trying to find a decent engine but everyone is saying many different things. I am hoping to get a reasonable answer from someone who experienced a similar thing. My budget is very limited and I love my car, It almost 200k on it but except the blown engine, it is great car.
I had a slight knocking sound coming from the engine started almost 2 months ago. I took it to few mechanics to see how serious it was. Some said it was a faulty fuel pump that doesn't circulate the oil evenly. One dealer said that it was infamous vvel knock that there was a TSB for it back in 2009 I think. Finally I showed it to a local mechanic that had right diagnose for the knocking issue. He was sure it was one of the rod bearings or the piston head. But he didn't have proper tools or computer to pinpoint the issue. Then He realized that knocking only occurred after the engine warmed up, lets say about after 10-15 minutes. This made him little suspicious since rod knocking should be present as soon as the engine started. Then we thought it may be one of the valve caps that may got loose or faulty. Long story short, I decided to take it to an another dealership who said could diagnose the problem without taking the engine apart. I tried to drive the car as little as possible till I get it fixed in all that time. The dealer was 150 miles away from where I lived. I had no choice to drive it there. They found the problem in the 4th cylinder. But further diagnose to pinpoint which part actually was faulty, They had to take look inside.
They gave me 2 options:
fix the engine which will cost around 5 grand, or get a new engine which will cost me roughly 12K. Of course they were tripled the part prices if not doubled. Since I knew where the actual problem was, I decided to take to my mechanic which is 30/h (friend deal) versus $160/h at dealership. Dealership thinks its will be an 20 hours job. I didn't have 5 grand anyway, so I drove back but unfortunately didn't make it home.A part of the connecting rod came out of the block the second I realized something wasn't right. I was able to pull over to safety. I knew I shouldn't drive it that long but I had no choice. I might sound as a cheap-***, by not fixing the engine earlier, or, fix it locally. But I Had limited options. Now, I think fixing that engine is out of the question. So I am trying to find a decent engine but everyone is saying many different things. I am hoping to get a reasonable answer from someone who experienced a similar thing. My budget is very limited and I love my car, It almost 200k on it but except the blown engine, it is great car.
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Bahoni (01-28-2017)
01-22-2017, 07:26 PM
#6
Registered Member
Thank you, xnick101. I think the long block itself is the same as far as dimensions, etc. What I am worried that some of the parts on the engine may be different in size, placement, feature, etc. But if there is a difference that I can't get around it by using a different part, than I am stuck with a engine that won't fit my car and most likely I won't be able to return it back since I am going to buy a used one.
I had a slight knocking sound coming from the engine started almost 2 months ago. I took it to few mechanics to see how serious it was. Some said it was a faulty fuel pump that doesn't circulate the oil evenly. One dealer said that it was infamous vvel knock that there was a TSB for it back in 2009 I think. Finally I showed it to a local mechanic that had right diagnose for the knocking issue. He was sure it was one of the rod bearings or the piston head. But he didn't have proper tools or computer to pinpoint the issue. Then He realized that knocking only occurred after the engine warmed up, lets say about after 10-15 minutes. This made him little suspicious since rod knocking should be present as soon as the engine started. Then we thought it may be one of the valve caps that may got loose or faulty. Long story short, I decided to take it to an another dealership who said could diagnose the problem without taking the engine apart. I tried to drive the car as little as possible till I get it fixed in all that time. The dealer was 150 miles away from where I lived. I had no choice to drive it there. They found the problem in the 4th cylinder. But further diagnose to pinpoint which part actually was faulty, They had to take look inside.
They gave me 2 options:
fix the engine which will cost around 5 grand, or get a new engine which will cost me roughly 12K. Of course they were tripled the part prices if not doubled. Since I knew where the actual problem was, I decided to take to my mechanic which is 30/h (friend deal) versus $160/h at dealership. Dealership thinks its will be an 20 hours job. I didn't have 5 grand anyway, so I drove back but unfortunately didn't make it home.A part of the connecting rod came out of the block the second I realized something wasn't right. I was able to pull over to safety. I knew I shouldn't drive it that long but I had no choice. I might sound as a cheap-***, by not fixing the engine earlier, or, fix it locally. But I Had limited options. Now, I think fixing that engine is out of the question. So I am trying to find a decent engine but everyone is saying many different things. I am hoping to get a reasonable answer from someone who experienced a similar thing. My budget is very limited and I love my car, It almost 200k on it but except the blown engine, it is great car.
I had a slight knocking sound coming from the engine started almost 2 months ago. I took it to few mechanics to see how serious it was. Some said it was a faulty fuel pump that doesn't circulate the oil evenly. One dealer said that it was infamous vvel knock that there was a TSB for it back in 2009 I think. Finally I showed it to a local mechanic that had right diagnose for the knocking issue. He was sure it was one of the rod bearings or the piston head. But he didn't have proper tools or computer to pinpoint the issue. Then He realized that knocking only occurred after the engine warmed up, lets say about after 10-15 minutes. This made him little suspicious since rod knocking should be present as soon as the engine started. Then we thought it may be one of the valve caps that may got loose or faulty. Long story short, I decided to take it to an another dealership who said could diagnose the problem without taking the engine apart. I tried to drive the car as little as possible till I get it fixed in all that time. The dealer was 150 miles away from where I lived. I had no choice to drive it there. They found the problem in the 4th cylinder. But further diagnose to pinpoint which part actually was faulty, They had to take look inside.
They gave me 2 options:
fix the engine which will cost around 5 grand, or get a new engine which will cost me roughly 12K. Of course they were tripled the part prices if not doubled. Since I knew where the actual problem was, I decided to take to my mechanic which is 30/h (friend deal) versus $160/h at dealership. Dealership thinks its will be an 20 hours job. I didn't have 5 grand anyway, so I drove back but unfortunately didn't make it home.A part of the connecting rod came out of the block the second I realized something wasn't right. I was able to pull over to safety. I knew I shouldn't drive it that long but I had no choice. I might sound as a cheap-***, by not fixing the engine earlier, or, fix it locally. But I Had limited options. Now, I think fixing that engine is out of the question. So I am trying to find a decent engine but everyone is saying many different things. I am hoping to get a reasonable answer from someone who experienced a similar thing. My budget is very limited and I love my car, It almost 200k on it but except the blown engine, it is great car.
Telcoman
01-22-2017, 08:40 PM
#7
Your current engine can be rebuilt, most every engine can if you have a competent mechanic. Or you can swap a new engine in if you like. Any VQ37VHR engine from any year can be swapped into your car. If anyone tells you different, do not let that person work on your car.
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Bahoni (01-28-2017)
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01-26-2017, 04:42 AM
#8
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Ok well here's the best way to find out for sure. Call Forged performance, Z1 Motorsports, or Soho motorsports tomorrow and ask them. They swap VQ engines and turbo cars every day so they can give you a solid answer. Also swapping the new engine in shouldn't cost you anymore than $4500 at most. Anything more than that you are being ripped off. Do some research or find any local tuner shops that can do the job.
Thanks, I will give them a call. I already got a mechanic who can do the swap for around a $1000 so I am good there. I just need the right engine.
01-26-2017, 04:58 AM
#11
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Your current engine can be rebuilt, most every engine can if you have a competent mechanic. Or you can swap a new engine in if you like. Any VQ37VHR engine from any year can be swapped into your car. If anyone tells you different, do not let that person work on your car.
Thanks again.
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Bahoni (01-28-2017)
01-26-2017, 07:37 PM
#13
I have a 2008 and threw a rod. Infiniti dealership quoted me around $13k for a new engine. Luckily I'm about an hour away from Z1 Motorsports and they hooked me up. I believe the engine they put in mine came out of a 2011. During my research, I think the only thing I found you need to worry about is the transmission mating up to the block... it's different for auto vs manual.
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Bahoni (01-28-2017)
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Bahoni (01-28-2017)
01-27-2017, 01:50 PM
#15
Lol terrible advice. If your grammy needs a new kidney, would you just get another gamgam?
This. If possible, find the newest model possible, the newer engines were updated to keep from leaking oil around the timing gasket. Otherwise, they are completely identical. They'll just need to swap your current harness on the new motor since its a 5AT and not a 7AT. This can be done in one day, no problem.
Your current engine can be rebuilt, most every engine can if you have a competent mechanic. Or you can swap a new engine in if you like. Any VQ37VHR engine from any year can be swapped into your car. If anyone tells you different, do not let that person work on your car.
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Bahoni (01-28-2017),
Dinks370gt (12-14-2020)