steez

It's possible I broke my differential.
Loud metal grinding sound from what appears to come from the rear of the car.
I originally thought it was a tranny/clutch situation before I pinpointed the source of the sound.

Anyways, from I understand it could he either the rear CV joints, the actual axle or the differential.

(Besides the diff, is it worth other upgrading the joints or axle)?

If it does end up being the differential what are suggestions for upgrades.
I daily drive but would love preparing for enhanced spirited driving, sliding/drifting, track, and auto-x!! I don't do any of that now but I do fishtail on familiar turns every so often.

Should I just keep OEM ? I would love to upgrade in a situation like this.
There's a CUSCO diff for around $1800 but are there any other options?

IS THIS AN UPGRADE WORTH PERFORMANCE (or reliability for my intentions) ??


Thanks for any help or replies. Flame welcomed as well

Presto

Besides a good quality lsd, you can do the z1 finned diff cover and look into a higher final drive (4.08 or more). You can also get the polyurethane rear differential bushing kit. Use a good quality oil which is suitable for whatever lsd you are getting.

WillCo1

You can install a 4.08 Gear and Pinion set for about a 10% increase in acceleration.

You can also install rear diff bushings.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...installed.html

steez

I've only found the Cusco LSD so far.
Zspeed has it for around $1500.
This means I won't have money for the 4.08 FD rack and pinion.
However I'll get the bushings as recommended.

1. Are there any other options besides the Cusco I found?

2. Is it worth saving longer for the rack and pinion?

3. If I understand correctly getting a bigger final drive will help a bit with acceleration but won't the top end be affected as the trade-off?

astat4

try the convertible 3.9 differential.

you can sometimes find em for cheap on ebay

Ape Factory

iTrader: (3)

There are a few options.

I would stay away from the clutch pack differentials like Cuso, OS Gilken, Nismo, etc...while they work very, very well, they do require regular maintenance with fluid changes and are generally jerky/noisy on the street when making slow turns. They require a bit of tolerance for daily driving. You'll know it's there in other words.

The stock VLSD that comes with the Sport and IPL models is good for everyday drivability but they tend not to be as effective when they get really hot. Not sure how you use the car but if you do any hard street driving, autocross or track days, you'll want to get something that's an upgrade over the VLSD.

If you don't like the idea of regular maintenance, you'll want a Torsen-style LSD. There are two brands which are available for the G. The first is Quaife and the second is Wavetrac. Of the two, the Wavetrac is considered to be a bit better as it'll still work with one wheel off the ground. The Quaife works very, very well however and it's easier to purchase and install the Quaife as it comes in several iterations depending on what the stock differential is and what transmission you have.

If you want to run the Wavetrac, you'll need a manual transmission differential out of a G37 or 370Z.

It ends up getting a bit more complicated depending on what transmission you have as you'll need to swap out at least one stub axle. Z1 has this down pat so you may want to consult with them or do LOTS of reading on it. Can get pretty confusing.

steez

I have the 6MT (manual transmission).
Will I be OK going with the Wavetrac Torsen-style LSD or is there anything else I should be aware of ?

Ape Factory

iTrader: (3)

From the Z1 site:
NOTE: Wavetrac Differentials require the replacement of OEM stub axles for install and must be used in one of two configurations.
A) When installing on a factory open differential, both stub axles must be replaced.
B) When installing on a factory viscous LSD, the passenger (right) side stub axle must be replaced.

It's a little weird the way they state it above because there's only two types of stubs available, open or VLSD stubs. So not sure why you have to replace both on one and only one on the other type.

If you broke your ring gear or pinion, you'll need replacements for those as well along with a full rebuild kit.

Vivid Racing seems to have the best price on the Wavetrac although you may want to check and see if Z1 will price match. They have everything else you need at Z1.
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...150722656.html

This was my list of stuff I'd need for a Quaife Differential installation and it'll be slightly different since a) you already have a manual differential and b) the axle stub situation listed above:
1-OEM open diff (Auto) $200
1-Z1 Motorsports Diff Upgrade Kit $275
1-Quaiffe LSD-$1300

• 2x - 1L Diff Oil - (Motul 75/90)
• 2x - 38440-0C000 - Differential Side Bearing $100
• 2x - 38342-P9010 - Differential Side Oil Seal $14
• 2x - 11026-4N200 - Differential Drain Plug Crush Washer $4
• 1x - 38120-0C000 - Carrier Bearing Assembly $75
• 1x - 38140-0C00A - Pinion Bearing $41
• 1x - 38189-P0117 - Drive Oil Seal $14
• 10x 38102-7S000- Ring Gear Bolts-$25

Total: $2048

ttv36

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't worry about upgrading the differential to just prepare for "sliding/drifting, track, and auto-x". While it would be beneficial to upgrade, to me I think the money would be better spent on getting you more seat time on the track and then worry about the upgrade once you feel that you actually need it.

For daily driving you will not need the upgraded differential. Just get another OEM and put it in there.

Presto

if you want a quaife differential you can buy directly from quaife uk website. its under $1000 shipped. Only thing i'm not sure is if quaife uk will ship to USA as there are many quaife dealers in the US.
I know quaife UK will ship to UAE.