tite_tite

Hi,

I normally get my oil change at an auto shop I've been going for years. I always see him put some kind of "thread tape" on the oil drain plug when screwing it back up.

I purchased some ramps, oil wrench, etc to DIY oil change. I see some "thread tape" at advance auto for like $1.

Are they necessary and/or does it help?

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

I'd think the heat would ruin the teflon tape. In 20+ years of changing my own oil, i've never wrapped threads with anything. Install a new crush washer properly (they only go one way), torque til snug, then refill with oil.

Maybe if the threads are in questionable condition this tape could be used as a bandaid until proper fix is done (helicoil/new plug).

vqsmile

That's totally messed up. I would definitely NOT do that. ALL you need is some little sliver of teflon getting into your variable valve timing and control passages and clogging things up. DON'T DO IT! There is a good reason why the industry standard is to use some form of crush washer.

BTW, I'd be wary of having that guy work on my car; a lawnmower or a tractor maybe, but definitely not my car.


TLDR: get a crush washer

G37Xtreme

Since were talking about crush washers, I wonder what the correct way to install the oem crush washer is.

If you look at it, you will see one side has a notch cut out and the other side doesn't. Which side faces the oil pan, and which side faces the drain plug?

Flakman

I always went by: drain plug is flat, hole is not. Flat to drain plug, rounded to pan.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

I've always installed the washer with the notched end against the drain plug head.

tite_tite

appreciate all the info. thanks a bunch

Ryne

iTrader: (12)

If I recall correctly from the last few times I've changed my oil the crush washer will actually only thread on the bolt one way. For how cheap the crush washers are it doesn't make sense to risk it. I picked up a handful and have them in a plastic bag ready to go.

vqsmile

^^ This

Ryne

iTrader: (12)

I just changed my oil again yesterday. Already forgot the orientation it threaded on, but it only threads in the right direction.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Not sure I ever threaded it on. For the definitive answer, here's the info from the fsm.



13 drain plug
14 washer
*1 note reference
(C) oil pan side (referenced in the exploded view, not shown above)

That said, the pic above showing the red drain plug has the correct orientation of the washer

Why is does Nissan use this strange design compared to a standard aluminum type washer used in most other applications? Good question, one I don't have an answer to..

vqsmile

Why, was my endorsement not enough?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Yes, but now we all know the plug is tightened to 25 ft.lbs

vqsmile

Brad, you know I was just kidding, right?

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

What are your qualifications?

I never did research this to get a definitive answer. Doing the first oil change on this car I looked at the diy to see how the washer was to be installed.

I'm still curious why they indicate this direction over the other. Maybe examination of a used/crushed washer will reveal something. Perhaps the oil pan has more imperfections than the bolt.

Another unusual bit, why is the washer this unique design and copper. Most other vehicle use aluminum washers. Our early 2000's GM w/ 3800 gen 2 engine has an embedded washer in the drain bolt. Every motorcycle I've ever done an oil change on has used a basic aluminum washer. The trans (mt) and diff both use an aluminum washer on this car.