DIY AT shift knob replacement (B2Autodesign model)
#1
DIY AT shift **** replacement (B2Autodesign model)
First off, want to say thanks to Charles @ B2 Autodesigns for getting us a nice price on this high quality part. The shift **** comes well packaged and is machined to a high quality fit & finish.
This is my version of the install, there are a few ways to handle the mating of the shift boot.
Keep in mind, if you cut the OEM boot I'm not sure you can buy just the boot from Infiniti/Nissan, the whole shift column/panel is quite expensive, just want to give a heads up. If anyone can verify if you can indeed just buy the boot, let us know.
Here's some install pics & info~
To remove the OEM ****, just hold the collar on both sides and firmly press down, the collar will snap off and you can slide the boot down to expose the "U" clip.
Just pull the 2 outward prongs out and slide the clip back, then just pull up on the **** to remove, then replace that clip back on the **** since it's very small (and probably costly to replace).
Once you get the **** off you need to remove the shift console cover, this is simple but you MUST use a plastic pry tool of some sort, I have a variety of these cheap Harbor Freight body panel tools that I use. If all you have is a small screwdriver try to protect the panels by using a couple thin credit cards on the outside of the screwdriver head. You then just pry up in each rear corner to release the pawls.
Once you get the back of the panel lifted you then need to pull down on the front (above the ashtray). You then need to move the shifter into neutral, just push the white release rod to get out of park. Once in neutral you can then get the cover up and over the shifter, just be careful not to pull on the wiring. Just set it on its' side and pull the boot inside-out so you can cut the zip tie that holds the collar, need a sharp exacto blade to cut it clean, be careful as you don't want to cut the boot
After you cut the zip tie you can decide what you want to do w/ the mating of the boot. After some trial & error I decided to remove the OEM collar and pull the boot up to the straight section of the shift ****. This setup allows the boot to be in the best place without interfering w/ shifting.
The black plastic sleeve goes inside the collar w/ the 2 set screws. This is a very tight fit, which is good, but you need to get it down just far enough, otherwise you'll have to use a gear puller to get the collar back up (don't ask me how I know )
Once you decide on your boot setup, put the boot back over the shift rod, then put the panel loosely back in place
Put threaded lower tapered piece on first
You set it up so the LONG set screws are at 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock when looking straight down the shift rod. You place the plastic sleeve just barely on the rod w/ the full cutout at 12 and the half cutout at 3, the cutout MUST be on top w/ the closed section facing downward, this will allow the sleeve to slide down w/ the collar when the set screw is inserted and tightened down just enough to contact the shift rod, hopefully this makes sense.
Use a extended socket to careful hammer the collar down, be sure the plastic sleeve is lined up properly and the 3 oclock set scre is in far enough to hold the sleeve as you hammer it down.
Be SURE to only go down this far (5/8") (again, don't ask me how I know).
Once you get it to the proper depth you then change the long set screws for the shorter ones, then just tighten them up real snug
I then like to apply teflon tape to the threads just to make it easier to engage and remove.
You then install spring and thread the **** on, pull the boot up, and presto! The zip tie is temporary FWIW, I think I'll be using a thin amount of the boot and put it right above the tapered piece and just clamp it down by threading the **** down on it.
If any of you get this **** and try a different boot mount please post up pics & info on this thread, would be nice to see what other options you can try.
Brad
Took about 90 minutes FWIW.
This is my version of the install, there are a few ways to handle the mating of the shift boot.
Keep in mind, if you cut the OEM boot I'm not sure you can buy just the boot from Infiniti/Nissan, the whole shift column/panel is quite expensive, just want to give a heads up. If anyone can verify if you can indeed just buy the boot, let us know.
Here's some install pics & info~
To remove the OEM ****, just hold the collar on both sides and firmly press down, the collar will snap off and you can slide the boot down to expose the "U" clip.
Just pull the 2 outward prongs out and slide the clip back, then just pull up on the **** to remove, then replace that clip back on the **** since it's very small (and probably costly to replace).
Once you get the **** off you need to remove the shift console cover, this is simple but you MUST use a plastic pry tool of some sort, I have a variety of these cheap Harbor Freight body panel tools that I use. If all you have is a small screwdriver try to protect the panels by using a couple thin credit cards on the outside of the screwdriver head. You then just pry up in each rear corner to release the pawls.
Once you get the back of the panel lifted you then need to pull down on the front (above the ashtray). You then need to move the shifter into neutral, just push the white release rod to get out of park. Once in neutral you can then get the cover up and over the shifter, just be careful not to pull on the wiring. Just set it on its' side and pull the boot inside-out so you can cut the zip tie that holds the collar, need a sharp exacto blade to cut it clean, be careful as you don't want to cut the boot
After you cut the zip tie you can decide what you want to do w/ the mating of the boot. After some trial & error I decided to remove the OEM collar and pull the boot up to the straight section of the shift ****. This setup allows the boot to be in the best place without interfering w/ shifting.
The black plastic sleeve goes inside the collar w/ the 2 set screws. This is a very tight fit, which is good, but you need to get it down just far enough, otherwise you'll have to use a gear puller to get the collar back up (don't ask me how I know )
Once you decide on your boot setup, put the boot back over the shift rod, then put the panel loosely back in place
Put threaded lower tapered piece on first
You set it up so the LONG set screws are at 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock when looking straight down the shift rod. You place the plastic sleeve just barely on the rod w/ the full cutout at 12 and the half cutout at 3, the cutout MUST be on top w/ the closed section facing downward, this will allow the sleeve to slide down w/ the collar when the set screw is inserted and tightened down just enough to contact the shift rod, hopefully this makes sense.
Use a extended socket to careful hammer the collar down, be sure the plastic sleeve is lined up properly and the 3 oclock set scre is in far enough to hold the sleeve as you hammer it down.
Be SURE to only go down this far (5/8") (again, don't ask me how I know).
Once you get it to the proper depth you then change the long set screws for the shorter ones, then just tighten them up real snug
I then like to apply teflon tape to the threads just to make it easier to engage and remove.
You then install spring and thread the **** on, pull the boot up, and presto! The zip tie is temporary FWIW, I think I'll be using a thin amount of the boot and put it right above the tapered piece and just clamp it down by threading the **** down on it.
If any of you get this **** and try a different boot mount please post up pics & info on this thread, would be nice to see what other options you can try.
Brad
Took about 90 minutes FWIW.
Last edited by blnewt; 09-29-2015 at 09:07 PM.
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#4
Pyroclastic Flow
iTrader: (12)
Should be a different look. Get's me off the Carsmo hook LOL. I'll post pics.
The pic on the B2 site doesn't show any insignia, but the accompanying text indicates it has. But it also says the black finish has an anodized silver finish. Probably a cut-and-paste goof.
We'll find out soon. Either way I'm happy.
Sean
Last edited by VIVID; 09-29-2015 at 11:58 PM.
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blnewt (09-30-2015)
#6
Registered User
Got the shift **** installed! Looks awesome. Quick question about when engaging the shifting. Do you get a grinding sound when u push down ?
Last edited by jq604; 10-01-2015 at 02:22 AM.
#7
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
Brad,
How did you manage to hammer the collar down the shift rod with the black plastic sleeve inside it? I tried really hard but still couldn't do it. When I tried to push the black plastic sleeve through the rod by itself, it expanded a little bit, which was too big to be inside the collar.
How did you manage to hammer the collar down the shift rod with the black plastic sleeve inside it? I tried really hard but still couldn't do it. When I tried to push the black plastic sleeve through the rod by itself, it expanded a little bit, which was too big to be inside the collar.
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#8
Pyroclastic Flow
iTrader: (12)
Things I Learned When Putting My **** In
First: Thanks to Brad's pioneering efforts the install went quickly.
Second: All four of my set screws were identical.
Third: I had to use my tool to pry the trim off in a different location. I think this is because I have an X, hence a snow switch:
By trying to pry further forward on the trim this happened:
Not a big deal. I just took the 6 screws out of the back of the panel and glued it back together.
Fourth: I also had to use my tool to remove the trim in front of the ashtray to make it easier to pull my unit out of the trim:
Fifth: The release so you can put the shift-shaft in neutral is the white button about an inch to the left of said shift-shaft:
The after glow:
Sean
Second: All four of my set screws were identical.
Third: I had to use my tool to pry the trim off in a different location. I think this is because I have an X, hence a snow switch:
By trying to pry further forward on the trim this happened:
Not a big deal. I just took the 6 screws out of the back of the panel and glued it back together.
Fourth: I also had to use my tool to remove the trim in front of the ashtray to make it easier to pull my unit out of the trim:
Fifth: The release so you can put the shift-shaft in neutral is the white button about an inch to the left of said shift-shaft:
The after glow:
Sean
Last edited by VIVID; 02-01-2016 at 11:52 AM.
The following users liked this post:
TBau651 (02-01-2016)
The following users liked this post:
VIVID (10-01-2015)
#10
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
Brad,
How did you manage to hammer the collar down the shift rod with the black plastic sleeve inside it? I tried really hard but still couldn't do it. When I tried to push the black plastic sleeve through the rod by itself, it expanded a little bit, which was too big to be inside the collar.
How did you manage to hammer the collar down the shift rod with the black plastic sleeve inside it? I tried really hard but still couldn't do it. When I tried to push the black plastic sleeve through the rod by itself, it expanded a little bit, which was too big to be inside the collar.
#11
I was able to do this eventually. I like the look and the way this thing shifts but it is just frustrating how the leather boot makes it hard to push the **** down from Park. I also find it easier to not reuse the original collar. Does anyone have any idea to tie the boot to the B2 ****?
As far as the boot, I found it shifted fine w/ the boot extended up to just above where the two pieces screw together.. You could use two sided tape, the good 3m kind that they sell to hold spoilers etc. on. you could do a single wrap around just where the two parts meet, pull your boot around it and tack it down, I would think that would hold it down well.
I may try to unscrew the two parts about 1/8", then put a thin wire around the very top of the boot to get it into that gap, then slowly screw the **** down while I remove the wire, I think this will get enough of the boot into that gap so once it's tightened down it won't go anywhere. I doubt I'll do anything for a few days though. Maybe someone can beat me to it.
#14
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
Third: I had to use my tool to pry the trim off in a different location. I think this is because I have an X, hence a snow switch:
By trying to pry further forward on the trim this happened:
Fourth: I also had to use my tool to remove the trim in front of the ashtray to make it easier to pull my unit out of the trim:
By trying to pry further forward on the trim this happened:
Fourth: I also had to use my tool to remove the trim in front of the ashtray to make it easier to pull my unit out of the trim: