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DIY: 2011 Non Sport Fogs on 2008-2010 Sport Bumper

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Old 01-28-2015, 09:22 AM
  #211  
DYT-350Z
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So I've already installed my IPL bumper and mounted the fog lights in place... just need to try this wiring and mount my switch this weekend... fingers crossed! Thanks TVPostSound for the amazing write up!!
Old 02-28-2015, 08:26 PM
  #212  
Alan318
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Angry Screwed up somewhere

Just finished installing everything and one light does not turn on..... in additon there is a loud "buzzing" coming from the relay....... Any ideas?

Old 03-01-2015, 11:53 PM
  #213  
Ontario G37S
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Originally Posted by Alan318
Just finished installing everything and one light does not turn on..... in additon there is a loud "buzzing" coming from the relay....... Any ideas?

Obviously sounds like you didn't wire something right. Did you follow these instructions or did you follow what I told you how I did mine?
Old 03-05-2015, 07:21 PM
  #214  
Cr0tchf4i
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Originally Posted by Alan318
Just finished installing everything and one light does not turn on..... in additon there is a loud "buzzing" coming from the relay....... Any ideas?

Swap the lights with the one that works and see if that solves the problem. If it does, then it is obviously the wiring issue. If it's buzzing, it sounds like you're grounding somewhere or have the polarity backwards.
Old 03-14-2015, 07:42 PM
  #215  
GW330
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I have a 2008 G37 sport coupe and order everything besides the 2011 slim washer reservoir tank (Expensive).

Can I get away with NOT changing the washer reservoir? Any alternative to this? Moving it around? Using straps or something?
Old 03-14-2015, 09:41 PM
  #216  
waitwhat
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Originally Posted by GW330
I have a 2008 G37 sport coupe and order everything besides the 2011 slim washer reservoir tank (Expensive).

Can I get away with NOT changing the washer reservoir? Any alternative to this? Moving it around? Using straps or something?
Just remove the tank, unless you really need it. That what I did.
Old 03-15-2015, 02:10 AM
  #217  
GW330
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Originally Posted by MTHRFCKR
Just remove the tank, unless you really need it. That what I did.
I dont want to do that since I use it quite often, hopefully I find a way to resolve it once I see the actual fitment.
Old 03-19-2015, 08:28 PM
  #218  
GW330
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The fitment of the TYC 19-5915-00 and 19-5916-00 SUCK.. But i guess I will have to deal with them.

Did your parts came in with screws? Mine arrived without any screws.
Old 04-26-2015, 05:58 PM
  #219  
patronslvr
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Originally Posted by TVPostSound
This is dedicated to P CASEY who started all this mess with the 2011 bumper swap,
then getting into the fog lights, which touched a nerve, because I always felt that they were missing.
So now Im going crazy trying to make this happen.

I hate you!!

Seriously P Casey sparked the idea, and researched part numbers that made me realize that it CAN work. PEACE

A great big shout out to Brad at orderinfinitiparts.com, for the advice, and prices.


I will be updating this through the next week as parts come in:

The wiring part will work for the IPL bumper swap with fogs too.

I am wiring it into a separate circuit triggered by the running lights.
Which means I dont need to have the headlights on to use these, only the running lights.
Since the running lights trigger the relay, and I have auto lights, theres no forgetting to turn them off.
I can also use them with the high beams on!!!
The switch allows me to not have them on at all.

First thing was to install a switch.
Daystar KU80011 20 Amp Blue Light Rocker Switch Kit
The switch fits perfectly in the blank next to the hood release.
The lower instrument panel just pulls off via clips.
Pop off the left finish panel first, then the 2 screws for the hood release, and 2 screws for the ALDL connector under the panel.




I chose to use a relay and isolate the circuit from the existing fogs.
There is a relay box in front of the passenger wheel well.
I dropped a standard 20/30A Bosch relay in an empty slot. Also bought a (Bosch Style) connector with pigtails.
Notice where the blue wire is? thats the harness for climate controlled seats.
We Coupe owners dont have that, only vert owners.
So they left the relay out. Im tapping 12V from that unused circuit, and its already fused.
So the Blue wire is 12V battery feed, the white wire is grounded on the fender well.
I tapped into the running light circuit to run a wire through the switch into the relay trigger circuit (Black wire)..

The yellow wire is ready to attach to my fog lights.

Relay:
Tyco 12 VDC 5-Pin Relay SPDT 20/30A (Formerly Bosch)

Harness:
12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket For Bosch Type Relay
The wiring diagram is below:

Im waiting for the mounting parts/bezels etc, from orderinfinitiparts.com/

This is the parts list for the 2011 G37 base model coupe (2008-2010 sport model bumper):
62256-1NX0A
62256-1NX0B
62256-1NX0C
62257-1NX0A
62257-1NX0B
62257-1NX0C




The 2011 Non Sport uses the same fog as the 2011 Sport, so I bought TYC OEM replacements, they are as good if not better than
the $190.00 per side OEMs for $48.00 per side. I compared them to my wifes EX35 fogs!!
I replaced the Osram OEM H11 bulbs with the PIAA H11 Yellow Ion Plasma 2500K bulbs, same as the PIAA Yellow H1s Im using in my upper fogs, in the existing lamp housing.

I also used the AC Delco PT120 weather tight connectors with pigtails.




Testing the wiring etc.

Here's the test with PIAA Plasma Ion Yellow 168 wedge running lights only,
Fogs using PIAA 2500K Plasma Ion Yellow H11s.
Headlights OFF OEM FOGS OFF



Here's the test with PIAA Plasma Ion Yellow 168 wedge running lights,
PIAA 2500K Plasma Ion Yellow H1 in the OEM fog position ,
Fogs using PIAA 2500K Plasma Ion Yellow H11s.
Headlights ON OEM FOGS ON



Parts arrived:

Fog bolts to bracket.
Bracket screws to 4 ears on "faux" vent with holes.
"Faux" vent installs the same way as the originals. 4 clips to the bumper, and 1 screw to lock it.
Chrome ring covers all.



Ill pull the bumper this Saturday!!

Meanwhile all bolted together:

Caution, the holes for the brackets use #10 sheet metal screws, but they feel loose,, I grabbed #12 X 1"
now theyre tight!
The fogs I used M6 X 15MM shouldered SS bolts.
Now all I need to do is remove the bumper, and these things will just pop in after removing the OEM faux vents.


New instructions:

The fogs need to be installed on piece at a time, not as an assembly.
The faux vent with the cut out goes on first, push in from behind till you hear all 4 ears click into place.
The fog bracket goes on next, you can have the fog bolted into the bracket.
Align and slide the bracket from behind the faux vent with hole, then install the 5 screws, the bracket will then fully
lock the pieces together. It will pinch the vent tabs to the ears on the bumper.





UPDATE....The bumper does NOT have to come off!!

All I had to do was jack up the front end, and remove the front fender liners.
The three washer bottle bolts can be removed from underneath, it was easier to install the slim one, as there was way more room!!

The slim washer bottle is the same fluid capacity as the original. How did they do that, you say??
Its longer!!







OK, project is a success!!
I will be spraying the chrome trim rings with Duplicolor Shadow this weekend.





PIAA 4000K H11 Halogens, nice match!!

More picture to come soon.


Plasti Dip??? What do you think??



ADDENDUM:

The TYC 19-5719-00 and 195720-00 fog lights work, but the fit within the ring is not perfect.
Yes, I am ****!!
I found out by cross referencing numbers with TYC's catalog that the
TYC 19-5915-00 and 19-5916-00 fit much better within the ring, on both the 2011 non-sport, and 2011 Aero bumper.
I just received them and fitted to my new 2011/2012 Aero Bumper.



.
License plate plugs installed:

Hillman 008236715958 domed plastic plugs from Lowes. Fits the existing holes.
Scotchbrite the plastic.
1 coat Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter (Clear Primer)
3 coats Duplicolor Perfect Match spray.
2 coats Duplicolor Clear Enamel.

.

FINAL PICTURE
.
What size are the two screws that hold the fog lights on to the side rails to the bumper?
Old 07-30-2015, 03:54 PM
  #220  
hipoCBR
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Hey so I've had the ipl kit for couple years now but never bothered to do thE remaining process and I bought all the parts for it from OP, but never got around to it til last night. Also bought the battery in line fuse.

So I never ordered the stock h11 adapter (2 wire plug in) because I bought the HID kit. With that being said since I don't have the stock bulb adapter can I cut off the HID adapter wires, pair the 2 cables, and tap/splice into the headlight fogs?

Also I have the same switch, there are 4 inputs in the back of it, he mentions that u run the black cable into it and return it back to the relay. Ground it.
My question is , do I run the black cable into the top connect and return it through the SAME connector?

If anyone can answer that would be much help.I'm horrible at electrical.
Old 10-03-2017, 08:54 PM
  #221  
Jamsey Aimsey
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Relay/Harness Size

Hey Guys,

I'm curious can I put in a 40/30 relay in or does it have to be 20/30???

Reason I'm asking is I did this mod awhile ago and I thought it was fine. Everything was perfect for awhile then I started having problems. I checked the relay that was in a relay box. When I pulled the harness out and looked at it I noticed that the yellow wire had some burning (brown colouring on the end of the wire) and where the wire went into the relay the plastic casing around the yellow wire was all melted and formed around the end of the wire. Why the hell did this happen?!?!?!?!

Any ideas guys? Let me know what you're thinking....

Nick
Old 11-25-2017, 04:07 AM
  #222  
Superjay
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you can use a 30/40 relay HOWEVER, the diagram shown is unsafe. pin 30 should always be your output. The reason for this is that if you put a constant power source to 30 then, when the relay is not activated, it will be putting power to pin 87a, and when activated to 87. Always always always use pin 30 for your output..
Old 02-19-2019, 11:13 AM
  #223  
CJ1957
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Originally Posted by Superjay
you can use a 30/40 relay HOWEVER, the diagram shown is unsafe. pin 30 should always be your output. The reason for this is that if you put a constant power source to 30 then, when the relay is not activated, it will be putting power to pin 87a, and when activated to 87. Always always always use pin 30 for your output..
So, you are saying that we should connect 12vdc source into 87 then out from 30 to supply power from relay to fogs?
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