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DIY: Grounding kits made simple, step by step guide to making your own!

Old 01-11-2019, 10:59 PM
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RMB5190
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You. Are. Going. To. Love. It.

3 point was pretty simple to install once I figured out how to manage the bolt inside the rear chassis frame. Is that the one you got or did you go with he OEM specific 4 point brace? Very curious as to how different the install procedure is.
Old 01-11-2019, 11:12 PM
  #257  
jpowersjr2
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That's awesome I can't wait. Car is already up on jack stands and is getting a huge suspension overhaul right now. The 4 point brace. I don't put that many miles on my car per year and never track the car so I felt an aftermarket diff cover wasn't necessary. They do look sweet though lol.
Old 02-20-2019, 06:04 AM
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Adil
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Will this work?

Amazon Amazon

Ordering it from abroad, so kind of paying almost the same price in shipping as the product itself. Just want to be sure, I don't order anything wrong.

If this isn't right, can someone provide a link of the right one on Amazon
Old 02-20-2019, 07:40 AM
  #259  
RMB5190
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Originally Posted by Adil
Will this work?

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-G...cs&sr=1-3&th=1

Ordering it from abroad, so kind of paying almost the same price in shipping as the product itself. Just want to be sure, I don't order anything wrong.

If this isn't right, can someone provide a link of the right one on Amazon
Looks right. I highly recommend this distributor though:

https://www.genuinedealz.com/


Old 02-21-2019, 10:30 PM
  #260  
takemorepills
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Originally Posted by RMB5190
Looks right. I highly recommend this distributor though:

https://www.genuinedealz.com/
While I strongly disagree with the waste-of-money-placebo-effect of a "grounding kit", RMB5190 is definitely suggesting one of the better vendors of wiring supplies.
I have a boat that is used in salt water, and I used genuinedealz almost exclusively for the re-wiring project of my boat. Great value and WAY better stuff than random "overseas" vendors. It's all fun and games to go cheap or do weird stuff to your vehicle until you take it out into open waters. You want the good stuff!
Old 02-22-2019, 08:47 AM
  #261  
RMB5190
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Good point^

Especially considering you're tampering with your car's electrical make-up to a degree. Using faulty/unproven stuff may result in undesired consequences....
Old 02-22-2019, 10:14 AM
  #262  
dalastcwood
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Originally Posted by Adil
Will this work?

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-G...cs&sr=1-3&th=1

Ordering it from abroad, so kind of paying almost the same price in shipping as the product itself. Just want to be sure, I don't order anything wrong.

If this isn't right, can someone provide a link of the right one on Amazon
That is not what you need. The wire in your link is CCA (copper-clad aluminum) , but what you need is OFC (Oxygen Free Copper).

Amazon Amazon

I didn't personally use the wire in the link I posted above, but it appears to be what you need, if you just have to use amazon.
Old 08-18-2019, 03:52 PM
  #263  
Cwickenstein
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Thank very much for the walk through! I already discovered that this did not fix my bluetooth-cutting-out issue, but I do seem to notice a but smoother shifts and the slightly better throttle response.
Old 01-07-2020, 10:41 PM
  #264  
Stanley Shie
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Originally Posted by AZg37
This guide will allow you to make your own grounding kit. These instructions will work for 2nd Gen G35 sedan, 08-XX G37 coupes, 09-XX G37 Sedans and 350/370 Z's. Please note the layouts may not be 100% identical between models, but you should be able to adjust and make these instructions work. By following these instructions, you will have every thing you need to make and install your own grounding kit that will help with car audio quality, as well as firm up those transmission shifts and fix lag in 5AT and 7AT coupes and sedans.
Items you will need:

12 ft. of 8 gauge oxygen free copper cable
6 individual 8 gauge ring terminals
3 individual 4 gauge ring terminals
Crimping tool and wire stripper
some zip ties for neatness, if you desire (I didn't use any)

Please note that all measurements in the photos are taken from the crimping point of the terminals and not from the end of the terminals themselves. The total amount of wiring used is 136 inches, so having 12 feet will allow you 8 inches of extra wiring to make sure you have enough.
Better to be slightly long in measuring than to have wires that are too short!!!

The kit is broken down into 3 wires: the drivers side wire, passenger side wire, and single connecting cable.

You'll note that there are 2 different sizes in ring terminals. This is explained here:

Attachment 172845
Attachment 172846

Use these next photo's to identify the length of each cable and connection, as well as which terminal goes to which connection point. There is a total of 9 connections, labeled A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H,I. You can also choose to go off course and mount additional wires to anywhere you want a strong ground signal. Some choose to add throttle body grounds, and some ground the ECU directly. It's all up to you! This instructions are for just a basic grounding kit that gets the job done!

="6"%MAKING THE WIRES
Passenger's side wire lengths and construction:
Attachment 172847

Connecting Cable:
Attachment 172848

Driver's side cable:

Attachment 172849



After you construct your 3 cables in the specified lengths, follow these installation instructions to enjoy your creation!

="6"%INSTALLATION:

Items you will need:
Ratchet, 10mm socket, extension if desired, 10mm wrench, 12mm socket.

Step 1. Detach the negative battery terminal from the battery.

Step 2. Remove the engine shroud and set it aside.

Step 3. Attach connection terminal A on the passenger side wire to the negative battery terminal. You can simply force the wire through the existing wire loom leading into the battery box. Wait to connect the wire to the batter until the end of the install.

Attachment 172850

Step 4. Attach connection terminal B to the passenger's side wheel well bolt where there is already wires connected.
Attachment 172851

Step 5. Attach connection terminal C to the engine block corner next to intake. Make sure to run the wires under the intake tube.
Attachment 172852

Step 6. Attach connection terminal D to the front of the engine using the dipstick mount. Passenger side wire is now complete!
Attachment 172853

Step 7. Using the single connecting cable, attach connection terminal E to the engine block bolt behind the coolant hose:
Attachment 172854

Step 8. Connect terminal F to the bolt on the drivers side wheel well, making sure to tuck the wire under the driver's side intake tube. Single cable is now complete!
Attachment 172855

Step 9. Using the Driver's side cable, attach connection terminal G to the top of the engine block where there are wires already connected:
Attachment 172856

Step 10. Attach connection terminal H to the mount on the wheel well next to the driver's side strut, across from the intake/throttle body. Make sure to run the wires under the intake tube.
Attachment 172857

Step 11. Attach connection terminal I next to connection F on the drivers side wheel well where there are already wires grounded. This completes the driver's side wire!!
Attachment 172855

Step 12. Connect connection A from the passenger side wire to the battery terminal, make sure all connections on all wires are tight, and then replace battery box cover.

Step 13. Replace engine shroud cover, make sure all wires are tucked, secure, and not in the way of anything.

YOUR JOBS DONE, TIME TO ENJOY TRANSMISSION AND AUDIO IMPROVEMENTS!!!!!


="6"%RESULTS
Attachment 172859
Attachment 172860
Attachment 172861
Attachment 172862

Most owners notice an immediate improvement in audio sound. Audio levels seem louder. I noticed this first hand and was very impressed. Owners also report improvements in Automatic transmission shifting. The lag between shifts in DS mode are dramatically improved, and shifts are firm and tight. It's also an added bonus that the wires look pretty cool, but if you don't want them to be an eye sore, tuck and zip-tie them away.
lol copied stillens to exact tee, except 1. shouldnt use thr dipstick 10 mil in middle, 2. H is useless, big performance difference if u put on thorttlr body bolt, H goes to rubber...acording to stillen intructions,... these are obvioudly a cheap money maker for them...
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