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DIY: Hotchkis F&R Sway bar install

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Old 02-07-2015, 06:00 PM
  #121  
G37Xtreme
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I got mine installed today. Was much easier than expected. My only issues were in putting the muffler back onto the mid pipe.

Time to drive
Old 02-20-2015, 11:29 AM
  #122  
G37Xtreme
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Originally Posted by Black Betty
That grease gun will work. I bought a cheap mini grease gun that takes 3 oz cartridges at Harbor Freight. Use silicone grease and it will stay lubricated longer, other types will wash out quicker.

Grease Gun with 3 Oz. Grease
3 Oz Super LubeŽ Grease

I did a little research and the grease at Harbor Freight isn't Silicone based. I was on the phone with the manufacturer and was asking about the differences.

This is what Harbor Freight sells:





And this is the same company's Silicone grease (they also have a dielectric version):




The manufacturer also commented that this silicone grease is safe for all plastics and rubber (except silicone rubber), while their multipurpose grease is safe on certain types of plastic and rubber. Both are waterproof however, so it could be a non-issue.

Their multipurpose grease should NOT be used on the following rubbers:

Butyl (IIR)
Ethylene-propylene-diene rubber (EPDM)
Natural rubber (NR)
Styrene-butadiene rubber (SBR)

I've just pumped my new end-links full of the multipurpose grease and confirmed the type of rubber with Moog. Their rubber wasn't directly on the chart provided by Super Lube, but they said it was like a polyurethane/polypropylene type rubber, which is OK for the multipurpose grease.

Either way, I plan on getting the silicone grease, and using it exclusively from now on. I may use the multipurpose for metal on metal, but anytime I see rubber, I'll stick with silicone grease.

EDIT:

Also, in doing more research, I've determined that the grease which Hotchkis ships with the sway bars (being very thick and sticky) is probably similar to their dielectric silicone grease. From the reviews I've read, it's described as "staying put" and the tube says "heavy consistency"


Last edited by G37Xtreme; 02-20-2015 at 11:43 AM.
Old 02-20-2015, 01:04 PM
  #123  
Black Betty
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Are you by chance an engineer?
Old 02-20-2015, 04:33 PM
  #124  
G37Xtreme
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Originally Posted by Black Betty
Are you by chance an engineer?
I'm an engineer at heart, but not by trade.

I also have both Silicone greases on the way from Amazon, and bought 2 more grease guns from Harbor Freight.
I will now be running 3 different greases.

1. Dielectric Silicone for Sway Bars
2. Normal Silicone for Moog End Links
3. General Purpose for anything that's metal on metal (no plastic involved)

Here's their compatibility chart:

Hotchkis F&R Sway bar install-5hmhxw6.jpg

Last edited by G37Xtreme; 02-20-2015 at 04:44 PM.
Old 05-03-2015, 06:56 PM
  #125  
Falker11
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Thanks for the writeup BB - successfully installed today. Super easy on my buddy's lift.
Dropping the exhaust in the back was the hardest part, still not a hard install.
Old 02-03-2016, 09:33 AM
  #126  
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What size torque wrench would you recommend for this install? 3/8in or 1/2in drive?
Old 02-03-2016, 10:28 AM
  #127  
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A 1/2 inch drive is the way to go if you can. You'll need a breaker bar for the 17mm bolts though, trust me. I picked up a Craftsman set of mm sockets from Sears:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc...p-00934556000P

To get the splash guard off, a 3/8 will work just fine though. Also, pick up some PB blaster or liquid wrench if you don't have any already.
Old 02-03-2016, 12:12 PM
  #128  
JSolo
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@ZahyMatar, don't think of using the torque wrench (if you're going to use one) as a breaker bar!!! Use a proper ratchet/impact to undo the bolts.
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ocie (02-03-2016)
Old 02-03-2016, 12:51 PM
  #129  
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Good addition, Jsolo. Only use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to the specified torque (and bring it back to 0 when you're done so it's not stored at a specific torque setting).
Old 02-03-2016, 04:22 PM
  #130  
ZahyMatar
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I already have a full socket set, just no torque wrench or breaker bar. Was just curious as to which size torque wrench I'd end up using more for this install(along with everything else on this car)
Looks like I'll get a 1/2in drive torque wrench and breaker bar.

Originally Posted by Jsolo
@ZahyMatar, don't think of using the torque wrench (if you're going to use one) as a breaker bar!!! Use a proper ratchet/impact to undo the bolts.
I'm not that dumb!
Old 02-03-2016, 05:18 PM
  #131  
JSolo
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Originally Posted by ZahyMatar
What size torque wrench would you recommend for this install? 3/8in or 1/2in drive?
Originally Posted by ZahyMatar
I'm not that dumb!
No offense, but asking the first question implies you're not well knowledgeable in this area. I've seen people use torque wrenches as breaker bars, hammers, etc. I can't even begin to imagine someone relying on a rented torque wrench!@#

From what I recall the front end links torqued to somewhere around 60 lb ft at the sway bar end and 120 lb ft at the transverse link end, and rear 41 lb ft at the sway bar end and 52 at the control arm end. So considering the torque spec and nut size, it should be pretty clear which size torque wrench would be most appropriate

Consult the fsm for more details on torque specs and other information.
Old 05-02-2016, 11:34 AM
  #132  
ColumbiaSkinny
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Boo-yah! Shame on me for not searching for this.

I printed out your step by step on this installation BB. Great write up. This should help me immensely, thanks....
Old 05-02-2016, 12:16 PM
  #133  
jfisher
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Maybe it's just me, but I really didn't notice a ton after installing these.
Old 06-13-2016, 01:58 PM
  #134  
Nico-derm
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To appreciate the upgrade you have to take it to a set of corners/stretch of road you've previously driven hard (more then once) with the stock set up.... a windy highway in my case and the car came alive.
Old 02-27-2018, 11:05 PM
  #135  
grailedmund
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People with oem exhaust, how much of the splash guards and exhaust did you have to remove?


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