DIY: Hotchkis F&R Sway bar install
#122
Registered User
That grease gun will work. I bought a cheap mini grease gun that takes 3 oz cartridges at Harbor Freight. Use silicone grease and it will stay lubricated longer, other types will wash out quicker.
Grease Gun with 3 Oz. Grease
3 Oz Super LubeŽ Grease
Grease Gun with 3 Oz. Grease
3 Oz Super LubeŽ Grease
I did a little research and the grease at Harbor Freight isn't Silicone based. I was on the phone with the manufacturer and was asking about the differences.
This is what Harbor Freight sells:
And this is the same company's Silicone grease (they also have a dielectric version):
The manufacturer also commented that this silicone grease is safe for all plastics and rubber (except silicone rubber), while their multipurpose grease is safe on certain types of plastic and rubber. Both are waterproof however, so it could be a non-issue.
Their multipurpose grease should NOT be used on the following rubbers:
Butyl (IIR)
Ethylene-propylene-diene rubber (EPDM)
Natural rubber (NR)
Styrene-butadiene rubber (SBR)
I've just pumped my new end-links full of the multipurpose grease and confirmed the type of rubber with Moog. Their rubber wasn't directly on the chart provided by Super Lube, but they said it was like a polyurethane/polypropylene type rubber, which is OK for the multipurpose grease.
Either way, I plan on getting the silicone grease, and using it exclusively from now on. I may use the multipurpose for metal on metal, but anytime I see rubber, I'll stick with silicone grease.
EDIT:
Also, in doing more research, I've determined that the grease which Hotchkis ships with the sway bars (being very thick and sticky) is probably similar to their dielectric silicone grease. From the reviews I've read, it's described as "staying put" and the tube says "heavy consistency"
Last edited by G37Xtreme; 02-20-2015 at 11:43 AM.
#124
Registered User
I'm an engineer at heart, but not by trade.
I also have both Silicone greases on the way from Amazon, and bought 2 more grease guns from Harbor Freight.
I will now be running 3 different greases.
1. Dielectric Silicone for Sway Bars
2. Normal Silicone for Moog End Links
3. General Purpose for anything that's metal on metal (no plastic involved)
Here's their compatibility chart:
I also have both Silicone greases on the way from Amazon, and bought 2 more grease guns from Harbor Freight.
I will now be running 3 different greases.
1. Dielectric Silicone for Sway Bars
2. Normal Silicone for Moog End Links
3. General Purpose for anything that's metal on metal (no plastic involved)
Here's their compatibility chart:
Last edited by G37Xtreme; 02-20-2015 at 04:44 PM.
#127
Registered User
A 1/2 inch drive is the way to go if you can. You'll need a breaker bar for the 17mm bolts though, trust me. I picked up a Craftsman set of mm sockets from Sears:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc...p-00934556000P
To get the splash guard off, a 3/8 will work just fine though. Also, pick up some PB blaster or liquid wrench if you don't have any already.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc...p-00934556000P
To get the splash guard off, a 3/8 will work just fine though. Also, pick up some PB blaster or liquid wrench if you don't have any already.
#128
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
@ZahyMatar, don't think of using the torque wrench (if you're going to use one) as a breaker bar!!! Use a proper ratchet/impact to undo the bolts.
The following users liked this post:
ocie (02-03-2016)
#129
Registered User
Good addition, Jsolo. Only use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to the specified torque (and bring it back to 0 when you're done so it's not stored at a specific torque setting).
#130
Registered Member
iTrader: (4)
I already have a full socket set, just no torque wrench or breaker bar. Was just curious as to which size torque wrench I'd end up using more for this install(along with everything else on this car)
Looks like I'll get a 1/2in drive torque wrench and breaker bar.
I'm not that dumb!
Looks like I'll get a 1/2in drive torque wrench and breaker bar.
@ZahyMatar, don't think of using the torque wrench (if you're going to use one) as a breaker bar!!! Use a proper ratchet/impact to undo the bolts.
#131
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
From what I recall the front end links torqued to somewhere around 60 lb ft at the sway bar end and 120 lb ft at the transverse link end, and rear 41 lb ft at the sway bar end and 52 at the control arm end. So considering the torque spec and nut size, it should be pretty clear which size torque wrench would be most appropriate
Consult the fsm for more details on torque specs and other information.
#132
Registered User
Boo-yah! Shame on me for not searching for this.
I printed out your step by step on this installation BB. Great write up. This should help me immensely, thanks....
I printed out your step by step on this installation BB. Great write up. This should help me immensely, thanks....
#134
Premier Member
To appreciate the upgrade you have to take it to a set of corners/stretch of road you've previously driven hard (more then once) with the stock set up.... a windy highway in my case and the car came alive.