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Quick question. Just got the car back from Sal's in Houston. Wanted to see what everyone thinks about the alignment. I am dropped on Eibachs and don't have camber/toe plates. Seems a bit on the high side especially the rear total toe.
Yep, I agree, definitely out of spec in a number of areas. I had similar camber/toe numbers and my fronts wore fairly quickly on the inside edge. Do yourself a favor and spend some money on alignment pieces. It'll save you a larger chunk of change by not having to spend it on tires. I made that mistake and I had to shell out for a new set much sooner than I would have liked to.
It's not too bad without having any camber/toe kits, did they max out the OEM toe bolts, if not it would be better to max them out and gain a bit more camber in back. Ideally I'd probably add the rear toe bolt kit at least, if not, drive 3k miles and note tread wear. That's better than most sheets I've seen without the kits.
At at this point, I'm not too sure if it's worth purchasing camber/toe kits. I may just leave it as is. I spoke to Sal's and they told me that given the price for the kits and install it's probably not worth it. How much extra tread wear do y'all think I'm looking at? If it is just a couple of extra months of wear on the insides, I am not too worried.
At at this point, I'm not too sure if it's worth purchasing camber/toe kits. I may just leave it as is. I spoke to Sal's and they told me that given the price for the kits and install it's probably not worth it. How much extra tread wear do y'all think I'm looking at? If it is just a couple of extra months of wear on the insides, I am not too worried.
If you're running high mileage All Season tires you might not notice a bit extra wear from camber. If you run high grip summer tires you'll notice pretty quick if you'll need those camber/toe parts.
Like I said prior, the rear toe bolt at the minimum would be a good plan, assuming your OEM toe bolts are maxed out, that should get your toe in spec and that will greatly improve your tire wear.
If you just go as-is, be sure to take a real close look across your tread block front & rear now and again in 3k miles. Try to use a tread depth gauge or do your best to measure from the tread depth on the inside and outside of the tire's tread.
you are using one side of the tire more than the other. The side that gets used more will wear faster than the one not in use :/
Toe wear can eat the tire very quickly and camber wear will make the tire uneven but it will take longer.
Nominal camber spec is -0 degrees 25' and minimum is -1.16 degrees.
If you were autocross racing, wanted maximum tire 'bite' cornering, and didn't care about tire wear, your numbers would be fine. 2 degrees camber is definitely a tire wearing angle.
Front toe is fine. Rear toe should be possible to get into spec with just a $25 toe bolt kit. That said, getting your rear toe in line will further affect rear camber.
I got the Kintetix 4 wheel camber kit - for less than the cost of 2 front tires. The SPC kit is a tad cheaper but much less beefy.
The front suspension from the factory allows zero camber adjust-ability which can become a problem especially when lowering your car. Race enthusiasts also wish to add more negative camber to increase their handling without having to "slam" their car to achieve the desired camber. These arms will allow 1.5 degrees of positive camber, and 1.5 degrees of negative camber from the factory settings. So if your car is lowered 1.5" and the front camber is sitting at 2 degrees negative camber, these arms will allow you to bring them back out to .5 degrees negative camber.
12-28-2016, 04:30 PM
