Need Rear and front camber arms with swifts?!?!
11-06-2016, 11:26 AM
#16
Originally Posted by blnewt
That's the one huge advantage in front, the toe is fully adjustable through the tie rods, and another thing in your favor is they were able to keep your camber balanced at -2.1. As far as having "perfect" tread wear at over -2 camber, I doubt perfect would be what I would say, but reasonable would be more accurate, at least IME. And RadioFlyer makes a good point w/ going 4 bolts in back vs. the rear arms. There's been cases where the aftermarket arms make contact w/ aftermarket sways, and for a milder drop the camber bolt/toe bolt setup will get you in spec. If you have a dremel tool then give this thread a look. And what you might want to do is get the rear bolt kit (2 kits total) get them in stalled, get it realigned and just monitor your treadwear in front. If the wear is reasonable in your opinion then continue on, if in 6 months you see uneven wear then you can get the aftermarket front UCAs. Here's that link~ https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html
11-15-2016, 02:56 PM
#17
I just brought the car to a shop to get an estimate and they said it would take 5 hours resulting in $600+ in labor for installing rear bolts....
they also said getting the rear camber arms would be much easier to install making it cheaper but I already bought 2 sets of bolts.
Confused on what I should do
they also said getting the rear camber arms would be much easier to install making it cheaper but I already bought 2 sets of bolts.
Confused on what I should do
11-15-2016, 04:25 PM
#19
Originally Posted by blnewt
Maybe you can post up in the region where you live and someone on the site could help. It's only about 1.5 hrs to do all 4 bolts. If you were near me I'd do it for a case of premium beer 
12-09-2016, 09:29 PM
#21
Hey guys I just got an alignment after I dropped my 10' g37xS sedan on swifts and I got some bad news....
The mechanic told me I would need adjustable camber arms for the front and also rear camber arms.
I've read on the forums that it's usually a 50/50 thing that you would need rear camber arms at the most but they're telling me I need both!
Do I need the camber arms like he said?
How much wear on the tire would I see and how fast would they wear if I didn't get the arms?
Wasn't expecting to spend another $600
EDIT: how did the left rear get WORSE after the alignment?!?!?!
Before:
Attachment 124905
After alignment:
Attachment 124906
The mechanic told me I would need adjustable camber arms for the front and also rear camber arms.
I've read on the forums that it's usually a 50/50 thing that you would need rear camber arms at the most but they're telling me I need both!
Do I need the camber arms like he said?
How much wear on the tire would I see and how fast would they wear if I didn't get the arms?
Wasn't expecting to spend another $600
EDIT: how did the left rear get WORSE after the alignment?!?!?!
Before:
Attachment 124905
After alignment:
Attachment 124906
12-13-2016, 11:23 PM
#22
See if you can find the Voodoo13 arms on sale. They're probably the best of the "straight" rear camber arms. The SPL's have a kink in them which helps them clear larger swaybars but they do cost a bit more. All the others are straight. The Voodoo stuff is all made in the U.S. and they use high quality bushings. They were my second choice.
I'd spend a bit more now and save yourself the cost of new tires. I burned through a set of Bridgestone RE050A's in less than a year due to a very mild drop and less than ideal alignment. My toe also changed from the original setting. Our cars don't seem to hold front toe well. I could have gone another three to four months on the current tires had my alignment been in spec. It wasn't and I'm shelling out $1100 on tires tomorrow.
I'd spend a bit more now and save yourself the cost of new tires. I burned through a set of Bridgestone RE050A's in less than a year due to a very mild drop and less than ideal alignment. My toe also changed from the original setting. Our cars don't seem to hold front toe well. I could have gone another three to four months on the current tires had my alignment been in spec. It wasn't and I'm shelling out $1100 on tires tomorrow.
01-20-2017, 07:37 PM
#23
Installed myself in ~2 hrs and I don't have a lift - but do have air tools. Did an eyeball and measuring tape alignment good enough to drive to alignment rack. $100 bill and alignment is perfect factory spec despite drop, BC coils and Swifts.
I just thought of something though - some of the front and most of the rear suspension is put together with torque lock nuts. These are one-time use. If you re-use and put them to factory torque, they will be too tight and suspension will not move properly. Plus the nuts may loosen over time. Dealer wanted some outrageous amount of money for the nuts. Can be bought online for cheap.
part number is MTLN121.25 M12 X 1.25 (Fine Pitch) from nutty.com. Get 20 ($9) and you will have a lifetime supply.
Last edited by mhadford; 01-20-2017 at 07:44 PM.