Splitter

iTrader: (1)

Just out of curiosity, how much did you have to adjust the handbrake to get it to fit inside the rotor?

I had to wind the adjuster (silver cylinder with hex style adjuster **** in the middle and the spring, on the pivoting side of the pads) completely all the way in and I find the engagement to be a bit 'wrong' - for lack of a better word - since then. I am wondering if it's just the angle of engagement of the pad has changed with that much adjustment and less surface area is contacting the hub, or if I've done something wrong.

There is also a 'click' that I don't recall happening with the OEM rotors when I engage the brake. I am wondering if I adjusted the wrong piece, or perhaps something at the pad spreader end needed to be adjusted to. Handbrake still holds the car still, but it's just been on my mind, Perhaps you could snap a photo or two when you have the rotors off again?

Ape Factory

iTrader: (3)

So when I removed the rears, a lot of folks have to turn the adjuster to bring the parking brake "pads" in so the rotor will slide off. I did not have to do that. Just a quick hit or two from the dead blow and they came off.

Now when I went to put the rotors back on, I had to adjust them all the way in. I then adjusted them until I could not turn the rotors/hubs by hand and backed them out slightly. I posted a full DIY in the DIY section but here's a link. It has photos.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...-and-pads.html

I'll have to engage the parking brake and listen for a click. Might be the spring? I noticed it interferes with the teeth on the adjustment turnbuckle.

Splitter

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Looks like I did the same thing as you, full compressed to get the new rotors on. I might need to just fiddle with them a little when I have the car up this weekend to see if I can find the noise of the click.

I also didn't realise that the rubber grommet was for the brake adjustment, I'll realign the rotors to make sure it lines up, I had assumed the handbrake was self adjusting so I didn't pay attention when I installed them....

Ape Factory

iTrader: (3)

Yep! Semi-convenient if you have a flashlight to peer in the hole once the rotor is on. Take a look at how it adjusts with the rotor off as the spring keeps it from rotating so you sort of have to get the flat blade screwdriver in between the teeth and the spring.

If you have a 7AT, you'll need to turn the ignition on but not start the car, and then put the tranny in neutral to turn the wheels and align the access port to the brake adjuster. If you have a manual, it's much easier

Ape Factory

iTrader: (3)

I finished up part three of my brake upgrade tonight and installed the Z1 premium lines. I'm too tired to go into all the details but a full brake line swap and bleed ran me about 3 hours with no hiccups at all. It's not super hard by any means but it's something you need to do right. The first time.

Anyway, the Motive power bleeder is worth it's weight in gold and really makes the job easy. I ended up using almost three containers of the Motul 5.1 mostly due to the braided line swap. I did tighten all the line to block connections off the car. No leaks that way.

My only chance to drive it was backing out of the garage, down the driveway, and back in the garage. I could literally tell the difference right away as I was backing out. It was that noticeable. Can't wait to actually get it out on the street.

The fourth part is the Z1 brake booster brace. I'm not expecting too much. It's more of a challenge to see if I can actually get all three bolts in.

I'm going to do a DIY full write-up when I have time.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

Good luck with that. I got 2 out of 3.

Make sure to check the orientation before you install it. Mine was assembled backwards, so after getting it in, I had to take it out and re-do it.

Ape Factory

iTrader: (3)

Ha! That would be a definite check in to the crazy house moment for me.