Choosing the right coilovers

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Old 04-12-2016, 12:48 PM
  #61  
Waste86
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Are you going with the Type E Aragostas?
Old 04-12-2016, 02:48 PM
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Ape Factory
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Type S. The E's are about $400 less expensive but not sure why other than the steel housings.
Old 04-12-2016, 03:35 PM
  #63  
Waste86
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Originally Posted by Ape Factory
Type S. The E's are about $400 less expensive but not sure why other than the steel housings.

So when you talk about upgradeable to 2 way in the future is that the Type SS that it would become? I am curious because in the near future I am going to need to get some coil overs.
Old 04-12-2016, 03:49 PM
  #64  
Ape Factory
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That is correct. They'd add the external canister and compression (damping) adjustment separate from rebound.
Old 04-15-2016, 12:27 PM
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Nico-derm
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Ape,

Your Aragostas that you ordered have OEM Spring location? The S-Types I find online are "True" setup... are they decoupling the spring because you asked them to?

In the linked 350z forum posting they talk about having to reinforce the upper mounting point when changing to a true setup, is that the reason you chose to decouple?

You mentioned that the part number varies from the Z to G which I think it should based on the weight difference between the two cars... I do not see that on US vendor sites? I would also be curious to know if they had a separate setup for us Sedan owners....

All info appreciated
Old 04-15-2016, 12:43 PM
  #66  
Ape Factory
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They are indeed OEM-type with rubber upper mounts. I'm getting my information directly from the manufacturer's website along with the vendor who is actually selling them to me (they're in Japan).

I'm actually fine either way now. There have been a lot of people running true-type in the rear for years without issue and I'm not planning on tracking my car frequently if at all. If they show up as true-type, that means I may have to mess with sway bar diameter, maybe even going down in the rear.

They do have a sedan setup as well. I'll post a few links here. If you go to google.com/translate, you can get the page translated (somewhat) into English.

Since it's in Japanese, and not super intuitive to navigate, I'm going to post a few links here to make it easier to get around the site:
ƒAƒ‰ƒSƒXƒ^bTOPLINE (home page)
ƒ^ƒCƒvŠT—vbƒAƒ‰ƒSƒXƒ^bTOPLINE (different aragosta models for Japanese domestic models)
On the above link, each shock type, S, P, E, SS, etc...you'll see an orange box with an arrow. Click on that and it takes you to what models it fits for each auto manufacturer. The coupe is a Nissan in Japan (CKV36)and the sedan is an Infiniti I believe. Not sure what the chassis code is for the sedan off the top of my head. I think it's either the V37 or HV37, they list both.
‘ŽYŽÔƒŠƒXƒgbƒAƒ‰ƒSƒXƒ^bTOPLINE (Type S breakdown for individual auto makes with specs)

Now I just looked at the vendor's ad again and I ordered the last of two sets available apparently. The second set is now gone so they only list the "E" version. I know mine are being made at the Aragosta factory so maybe they'll list more?

As far as part number difference, I've found most of the time that all the coilover kits from all the various companies use the exact same part number and spring rate. And as you mentioned, the G is heavier. It also has a longer wheelbase so that should have some effect on spring rate, valving (and sway bar diameter ultimately). Aragosta is one of the few companies which has a different spring rate and part number for their "off the shelf" coilovers.
Old 04-15-2016, 12:58 PM
  #67  
Ape Factory
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I'm double checking with the vendor now as well. Usually takes a day or two and they may be off for the weekend.
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Old 04-15-2016, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Nico-derm
...In the linked 350z forum posting they talk about having to reinforce the upper mounting point when changing to a true setup...
The conclusion there is that racers need to stiffen the rear shock tower structure, while anectdotal evidence indicates street cars have no known issue with distortion in that area.
Old 04-15-2016, 03:27 PM
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Ape Factory
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Correct. If I were running slicks, 14k rear springs and doing track days at Sebring, I'd reinforce the shock towers. On another note, two earthquakes in two days in S. Japan. Another one there today 7.0+ on the Richter scale. Not sure where Aragosta or KTS is located.
Old 04-15-2016, 03:38 PM
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Nico-derm
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Originally Posted by slartibartfast
The conclusion there is that racers need to stiffen the rear shock tower structure, while anectdotal evidence indicates street cars have no known issue with distortion in that area.
Yes the conclusion was that in regular use those areas would not fatigue as quickly and most of that info was biased to "tracking" their cars. I was more curious as to how Ape came to his setup.

How you gone any further with your Powertrix? What spring rates are you planning on the sedan?
Old 04-15-2016, 03:47 PM
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No movement on Powertrix. I'm trying to finish the remodel of one home which I'm in the process of moving into, and I'm going to have to pay taxes this year, fairly big chunk of change. Then I get to start the remodel of the other house which I plan to sell.

Whatever coil-over I get, I want to go 11kg/10kg. Should be a nice but still comfortable bump in wheel frequency with valving to match.
Old 04-15-2016, 08:40 PM
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Old 04-17-2016, 06:15 PM
  #73  
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Those rates don't make sense to me. The coupe and sedan should be closer. I assume that's from Aragosta? 15/7 for the sedan, 12/10 for the coupe and 14/10 for the 370Z. Car weights are not that dissimilar.
Old 04-17-2016, 06:26 PM
  #74  
Ape Factory
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Well you have to look at intent too...I would think most 370Z drivers lean more towards the track. 400 pounds is also no small difference. Not to mention the shorter wheelbase. I would think a shorter wheelbase would want softer rear springs (370Z).

I haven't really looked at the chassis differences between the coupe and the sedan. But I see what you're saying, I never would have thunk either.

And yes, from Aragosta's website.
Old 04-17-2016, 06:52 PM
  #75  
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The coupe is a wee bit heavier than the sedan yet it's spec'ed with softer rate in the front and quite a bit stiffer in the rear. What's up with that? My Google-foo isn't very good, I can't seem to dig up OE sedan spring rates.

My intent doesn't seem to match what aftermarket guys expect. I'm not saying I'm smarter than them, but maybe I know more than the average consumer?


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