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I don't think you will get the results you are expecting.
From reading the spec sheet it doesn't look like the sub is made for an IB set up.
The sub wants ~1.3 sealed, the door is not a sealed enclosure.
The 4.5" depth is also to much even with a spacer.
Why are you wanting a sub in the door?
My B2 reference mids are just under 3". I had to use a 1" spacer and remove the metal bracket from the factory set up. You'll see what i'm talking about once you get the door panel off.
I want a bad *** mid bass. Thats why I want thay 10" Dayton. But the 8" Dayton will work.
do you have the Bose system? i'm satisfied now that i've added a powered sub to the car. i'd also like a tighter, crisper mid-bass, but i think i'm happy with it now to the point that i don't want to go through the trouble (and cost) of removing all the factory speakers and amps.
to quote others on here: "I too would like to do this but in my searching there is no easy replacement as the amps are very specifically matched to the crappy speakers both with impedance and crossover points. As well as equalization. Some folks have had OK results with infinity 2ohm speakers."
"In the early stage of my Bose-ectomy I did replace the drivers leaving the amps installed; and while I did gain some clarity and frequency response the overall effect was still disappointing. The Bose amps are made for 2 ohm drivers so unless your going to buy 2 ohm replacements, your SPL will be greatly reduced. Also consider the Bose amps are where 50% (or more) of your crappy sound comes from so expecting great things by just replacing the drivers is not really realistic. "
the EQ the Bose amp applies is the main problem. i really had the system sounding nice with an old rooted Android phone running the Viper4Android app. with the EQ correction, it seems the speakers are pretty good and the factory amp is what is killing the sound.
i don't run the Android phone anymore - now i leave an old iPhone in the center console, because the iPhone battery lasts longer, and it adds album art.
i've found that running the iPhone with EQ set to "Acoustic" (i listen to metal/thrash but this sounds best ) with some tweaking of the headunit bass/treble gives me the best sound. i've tried many IOS sound-enhancing apps (Audio Xciter, BBE SonicMax, LouderLogic, etc.) that sound great, but either mess up the song info on the display, or need to be started every time the car powers on. since the iPhone lives in the center console, that got tedious digging it out every time i started the car to hit "PLAY".
Landshark, for sure the stock amplification and eq suck.
I already own an Alpine H800 that I will install, that allows me to fix all the crossover points. From there 2 new Alpine PDX V9s will provide power. 1 PDX per side. Ch1 for left tweet. Ch2 for left mids, ch3-4 (200watt) bridged for left mid bass. With a 500 watt sub channel for 2 JBL GTO804s. Which means the 2nd amp does the same foe the right tweet, mid, midbass, while providing another 500 to 2 more subs.
It is a lot of power I know. But at 850 for both amps, it is hard to beat. It isnt easy amplifying a full active 3 way front stage and subs using as little room as possible.
I want a bad *** mid bass. Thats why I want thay 10" Dayton. But the 8" Dayton will work.
I would build a small-ish enclosure in the door for a 6.5" mid if you really want mid bass. An enclosure for a 8" midbass might be to big for our doors but you might find the right drivers.
Landshark, for sure the stock amplification and eq suck.
I already own an Alpine H800 that I will install, that allows me to fix all the crossover points. From there 2 new Alpine PDX V9s will provide power. 1 PDX per side. Ch1 for left tweet. Ch2 for left mids, ch3-4 (200watt) bridged for left mid bass. With a 500 watt sub channel for 2 JBL GTO804s. Which means the 2nd amp does the same foe the right tweet, mid, midbass, while providing another 500 to 2 more subs.
It is a lot of power I know. But at 850 for both amps, it is hard to beat. It isnt easy amplifying a full active 3 way front stage and subs using as little room as possible.
well, then disregard my post - you're replacing everything.
i didn't want to go through the headache/cost of replacing everything, especially after how it sounded with adding the powered sub and using Viper4Android. once i get a new phone, i'll go back to it using my current Android phone. for now, the old iPhone is easier to deal with since the old Android phone's battery i had tried earlier dies after a day or two of sitting in the car. i just want a dedicated music source to leave in the center console.
when i used the V4A app, the bass was TIGHT, and the treble was CRISP. stock Bose is muddy bass and shrill highs.
I love a great sound system, whether it be homr or car. I actually prefer a good car setup, because I like driving and listening to music.
I had a full 3 way in my Del Sol, with custom pods for the mids and tweets.
One reason I like the G37 so much is that it has a perfect setup, so very little modification is needed. Also, the radio doesnt do a bunch of crazy EQ, so hooking up a DSP and amps is straight forward.
My goal is for it to be 100% stealth. Even the 4 subs and amps.
I love a great sound system, whether it be homr or car. I actually prefer a good car setup, because I like driving and listening to music.
i've replaced the audio system in every car i've owned, except the last two (maybe i'm getting old and lazy? )
last car was an Evo with a Rockford Fosgate factory system that was good enough not to mess with, and the G37 is too much of a PITA/$$$ to bother with. would like a nice Android Auto headunit, though ...
WELLLLLLL.... Actually....After purchasing a Focal 3 speaker component setup including tweeter, 3.5", and a 6.5" for both doors of my coupe, removal of the panels revealed 10" subs. I've decided I'll replace the 6x9s in the rear deck with the 6.5s. Now I'm shopping for replacement 10" subs despite the fact that I've already had a custom box built for my trunk to house the 12-in Focal subwoofer that I purchased. This will indeed be the best system I have ever had as well as the most expensive system. (Even topped my quad cab RAM with the JL audio stealth box)
02-23-2017, 09:51 AM
) with some tweaking of the headunit bass/treble gives me the best sound. i've tried many IOS sound-enhancing apps (Audio Xciter, BBE SonicMax, LouderLogic, etc.) that sound great, but either mess up the song info on the display, or need to be started every time the car powers on. since the iPhone lives in the center console, that got tedious digging it out every time i started the car to hit "PLAY".
